Tuesday, January 14, 2020

Sapristi by Schiaparelli c1967

In 1967, the world was experiencing a cultural revolution. The year was marked by significant social, political, and artistic changes. It was the height of the counterculture movement, with the Summer of Love in San Francisco symbolizing a time of rebellion, freedom, and experimentation. Music, fashion, and art were breaking away from traditional norms, embracing boldness and creativity. In Paris, the epicenter of high fashion, designers were pushing boundaries and exploring new ideas, capturing the spirit of the era.

Elsa Schiaparelli, a renowned fashion designer known for her avant-garde and surrealist creations, chose the name "Sapristi" for her perfume, launched in 1967. The word "Sapristi" is an exclamation in French, derived from "sacristi," an old mild oath expressing surprise or astonishment, similar to "Good heavens!" or "By Jove!" in English. Choosing such a name reflects Schiaparelli's playful and daring nature, aligning with the exuberant and transformative spirit of the 1960s.

"Sapristi" as a name for a perfume conveys a sense of surprise and delight. It evokes a reaction of astonishment and admiration, much like the innovative designs Schiaparelli was known for. The name's whimsical and expressive nature makes it appropriate for a fragrance intended to capture attention and spark curiosity. It suggests a scent that is unexpected and striking, perfectly suited to the bold and adventurous fashion of the time.




The target audience for "Sapristi" would have been the fashion-forward, daring individuals who resonated with Schiaparelli's innovative style. These would be people who were not afraid to stand out, who embraced the new and unconventional. They would respond to "Sapristi" with enthusiasm, finding it an exciting and fitting complement to their unique sense of style. This perfume would likely evoke images of bold, vibrant colors, and a sense of playful elegance, embodying the daring spirit of the 1960s.

The word "Sapristi" itself conjures up feelings of surprise and delight, reflecting an unexpected joy or a pleasant shock. It brings to mind an image of someone discovering something wonderful and new, eyes wide with amazement, a smile of delighted surprise spreading across their face. The fragrance, carrying such a name, would aim to evoke those same emotions, offering an olfactory experience that is both surprising and enchanting.








Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was classified as a fresh floral chypre for women. "Sapristi a light fresh perfume with more than a hint of spice."

A fresh floral chypre perfume like "Sapristi" would likely contain a carefully curated blend of ingredients to achieve its light, fresh, and slightly spicy profile. Chypre fragrances are known for their complex and contrasting notes, typically built around a combination of citrus, floral, woody, and mossy elements. In "Sapristi," these elements would be artfully balanced to create a refreshing and sophisticated scent.

The top notes in "Sapristi" would likely include a burst of citrus, such as bergamot and lemon, providing a bright and invigorating opening. These zesty notes are essential in a fresh fragrance, adding an immediate sense of lightness and clarity. Alongside the citrus, there might be green notes like galbanum or petitgrain, which contribute a crisp, herbaceous quality, enhancing the overall freshness of the perfume.

The heart of the fragrance would be dominated by a bouquet of floral notes, creating a delicate and elegant core. Common floral components in a fresh floral chypre could include jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, and ylang-ylang. Jasmine adds a sweet and exotic richness, while rose brings a timeless and romantic touch. Lily of the valley offers a clean, green floral scent, and ylang-ylang introduces a slightly creamy, narcotic quality, ensuring the floral heart is both multifaceted and captivating.

To give "Sapristi" its characteristic chypre base, the perfume would incorporate classic chypre elements like oakmoss and patchouli. Oakmoss provides an earthy, slightly damp forest floor aroma, grounding the fragrance and adding depth. Patchouli contributes a woody, slightly sweet, and spicy note, enhancing the complexity of the base. To maintain the lightness of the fragrance, the oakmoss would be used sparingly, just enough to give that signature chypre sophistication without overwhelming the other notes.

The hint of spice in "Sapristi" could come from ingredients such as pink pepper, coriander, or nutmeg. Pink pepper would add a subtle, sparkling warmth and a hint of sweetness, while coriander offers a fresh, spicy nuance. Nutmeg, with its warm, slightly sweet spiciness, would contribute to the perfume's overall complexity, weaving through the floral and chypre accords seamlessly.

Additional base notes might include a touch of musk to give the fragrance a smooth and sensual finish, and perhaps a hint of vetiver or cedarwood to add a refined, woody element. These ingredients would ensure that "Sapristi" leaves a lasting impression, embodying the elegance and surprise that the name suggests.

In sum, "Sapristi" would be a light, fresh floral chypre with an intriguing blend of citrus and green top notes, a heart of delicate yet complex florals, and a sophisticated base of oakmoss, patchouli, and subtle spices, making it both refreshing and captivating.






Fate of the Fragrance:


"Sapristi" by Schiaparelli, despite its unique and captivating composition, was discontinued likely by 1970, just a few years after its launch in 1967. This brief production period has rendered the fragrance exceptionally rare and highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts of vintage perfumes. Finding a bottle of "Sapristi" today is a remarkable feat, as it is seldom seen in the marketplace or in private collections. The rarity of this perfume adds to its mystique and allure, making it a prized possession for those who appreciate the history and artistry of Schiaparelli's innovative fragrance creations. Its scarcity has elevated "Sapristi" to almost legendary status, cherished as a fleeting yet memorable piece of perfumery history.


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