Zut by Schiaparelli c1948

In 1948, the time period when Schiaparelli launched her perfume "Zut," Europe was emerging from the aftermath of World War II, entering a period of recovery and renewal marked by a blend of nostalgia for pre-war elegance and a burgeoning interest in modernity. This was reflected in fashion trends moving towards more streamlined silhouettes and a mix of optimism and reflection in art and culture.

Elsa Schiaparelli, known for her avant-garde approach to fashion, was also a trailblazer in the world of perfumes. Her connection to perfumes stemmed from her belief that fragrance was an essential part of one's personal style, akin to wearing a piece of clothing. Schiaparelli collaborated with renowned perfumers like Jean Carles and worked with the fragrance house Roure to create scents that embodied her bold and innovative spirit.

The name "Zut," meaning "damn" in French, was characteristic of Schiaparelli's irreverent and daring style. For her, choosing "Zut" as a name for a perfume was likely a playful defiance of convention, injecting a touch of her trademark wit and sass into the fragrance. This name would have resonated with individuals who appreciated Schiaparelli's unconventional approach to fashion and beauty, appealing to those seeking something distinctive and daring in their perfume choices.

"Zut" as a perfume name evokes a range of images and feelings. It carries a sense of spontaneity and surprise, much like an exclamation one might utter unexpectedly. It suggests a perfume that is vibrant, energetic, and perhaps a little mischievous—a scent that captures attention and leaves a lasting impression. 

Those who encountered "Zut" would likely have responded with curiosity and intrigue, drawn to its unconventional name and the reputation of its creator, Schiaparelli. The perfume would have appealed to individuals who embraced the avant-garde and sought to express their personality through distinctive scents. Overall, "Zut" by Elsa Schiaparelli in 1948 was not just a fragrance but a statement—an embodiment of post-war optimism combined with the irreverent spirit of its creator.

In 1948, Elsa Schiaparelli unveiled her groundbreaking "jungle" inspired collection, which revolutionized haute couture with its daring use of fabrics and avant-garde accessories. Models graced the runway in the latest sheer nylon stockings and flowing dresses, showcasing the then-novelty of nylon. Adding to the spectacle were Schiaparelli's iconic "jungle hats," featuring jaunty cloche styles and velvet tricornes adorned with pearl festoons, cocky ostrich feather aigrettes, and even masks of tiger or fox affixed to the crowns, serving as avant-garde visors that captured the imagination of fashion enthusiasts.

Central to Schiaparelli's 1948 collection were her distinctive color choices. She introduced "Vert Zut," a deep, medium green shade that epitomized the lush and exotic essence of the jungle. This color was complemented by "Zut Mauve," a pinky mauve hue that added a touch of sophistication and contrast to her fabrics. The swanky combination of "Vert Zut" and "Zut Mauve" not only defined her haute couture pieces but also extended to the presentation box of the Zut perfume itself, ensuring that every aspect of Schiaparelli's artistic vision was cohesive and meticulously curated.

News-Press, 15 Aug 1948:

"Schiaparelli's jungle colors - green, pink, blue, bronze and silver - are repeated in a range of stocking shades of the sheerest nylon matched to new winter fabrics...Perugia of Paris made high shoes or "pattens" of astrakan or other furs for Schiaparelli's jungle theme. To heighten the tropical note, inspiration of many models, the salons were sprayed with an exotic new perfume called Zut, a fragrance scheduled for the Christmas market."

The use of these bold colors in both fashion and fragrance packaging underscored Schiaparelli's innovative approach to design, where every element—from garment to accessory to perfume—was imbued with a sense of narrative and visual impact. By integrating "Vert Zut" and "Zut Mauve" into her collection and perfume presentation, Schiaparelli not only pushed the boundaries of fashion but also created an enduring legacy that celebrated creativity, daring, and the artistry of color.

The Name:

The name Zut was undeniably provocative in its time, particularly in France, where the word—pronounced zoot—was (and still is) a common expression of mild exasperation, akin to saying "damn" or "drat." While not considered truly obscene, it was certainly cheeky, irreverent, and a bit too casual for the refined world of haute perfumery in the 1940s. Naming a women's fragrance after such an exclamation raised eyebrows, especially in a culture where elegance, restraint, and linguistic decorum were prized. For some, Zut bordered on impolite; for others, it was refreshingly audacious. Either way, it captured attention, which was precisely Elsa Schiaparelli’s intent. Her fashion had long played with the unexpected, and this choice of name mirrored her love of surrealism, wit, and the shocking.

According to Antique Trader Perfume Bottles by Kyle Husfloen and Penny Dolnick, the inspiration for the name was as quirky and theatrical as Schiaparelli herself. The story goes that while at a train station, the elastic waist of her slip suddenly gave way, causing the undergarment to drop unceremoniously to her ankles. In the spirit of comic timing, Schiaparelli reportedly exclaimed "Zut!"—a moment that later found itself immortalized as the name of her fragrance. This anecdote not only reflects her ability to turn even wardrobe mishaps into creative sparks but also reveals the degree to which she embraced humor and humility in her work. It’s as if the scent itself captured that fleeting blend of embarrassment, surprise, and resilience.

However, Schiaparelli also offered an alternate version of the story in a 1950 interview with the Cincinnati Enquirer, suggesting that the name came to her on a whim while walking through the suit production room of her Paris atelier. The word suit (in English) happened to rhyme with zut, and in that moment, the name simply stuck. It also referenced the zoot suit—a flamboyant, oversized style of menswear popular in 1940s America, often associated with jazz culture and youthful rebellion. With its exaggerated silhouette and vibrant flair, the zoot suit symbolized defiance of mainstream norms, much like Schiaparelli’s own designs. A contemporary nod to the zoot suit underscores a cross-cultural sensibility and keen awareness of fashion as a form of self-expression and social commentary.

These conflicting origin stories—one tied to a personal gaffe, the other to spontaneous rhyme and fashion trends—are not necessarily contradictory, but rather emblematic of Schiaparelli’s complex, layered creativity. She never shied away from mixing the personal with the theatrical, the humorous with the haute. In naming her fragrance Zut, she gave the perfume a personality—bold, whimsical, and just a touch scandalous. Whether seen as an expletive, an accident, or a stylish rhyme, Zut exemplified Schiaparelli’s refusal to play by the rules. The name became part of the perfume’s mystique, proof that a little shock value—delivered with elegance—could create something truly unforgettable.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Zut by Schiaparelli is classified as a bittersweet, warm floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehyde C-12 MNA, Tunisian neroli, Calabrian bergamot, Tuscan violet leaf absolute Peach lactone, French blackcurrant
• Middle notes: French calendula, Egyptian carnation, Alpine cyclamen, French mimosa, Dutch linden blossom, Tunisian orange blossom absolute, Comoros ylang ylang, Grasse jasmine, Alpine lily of the valley, Grasse rose, Florentine orris  
• Base notes: Javanese patchouli, Colombian tolu balsam, Venezuelan tonka bean, Mexican vanilla, Omani frankincense, Russian leather, Ethiopian civet, Siamese benzoin, ambergris, Spanish labdanum, Mysore sandalwood,Tibetan musk

 

According to Basenotes.com member danielremy, the perfume "Zut" offered a distinctive olfactory experience that blended elements reminiscent of Russian Leather and Shalimar. Known for its complex composition, the fragrance opened with a robust leathery note characterized by birch tar, akin to fragrances like Lubin's Cuir de Russie or Jet by Corday. This initial impression evoked a sense of boldness and richness, setting a strong and memorable tone.

As "Zut" progressed into its drydown phase, it transitioned into a softer, more amber-infused base reminiscent of the classic scent profile found in Shalimar. This shift added a layer of warmth and elegance to the fragrance, balancing the initial intensity of the leather notes with a velvety smoothness that appealed to wearers seeking sophistication and depth.

While "Zut" may not have achieved the same level of commercial success as Schiaparelli's iconic "Shocking" perfume, it still garnered praise for its intriguing blend and memorable character. For enthusiasts like danielremy, the perfume remained a fascinating olfactory journey—a testament to Schiaparelli's ability to craft fragrances that captivate with their complexity and allure, offering wearers a unique and enjoyable scent experience.

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Spontaneous interjection, harsh and a little violent at the start...but which becomes suave and charming like a lover's quarrel."

Scent Profile:

Experiencing Zut by Elsa Schiaparelli is akin to stepping into a surrealist painting—unexpected, provocative, and richly layered. Launched in 1948, this bittersweet, warm floral oriental fragrance was a bold statement in post-war perfumery, reflecting Schiaparelli's irreverent spirit and avant-garde approach to fashion and scent.​

The fragrance opens with a vibrant interplay of Calabrian bergamot and French blackcurrant. The bergamot imparts a zesty, citrusy brightness, characteristic of the sun-soaked groves of Calabria, while the blackcurrant adds a tart, fruity depth, introducing a hint of intrigue. This initial burst is accentuated by aldehyde C-12 MNA, a synthetic note that adds a sparkling, slightly metallic freshness, elevating the natural citrus and fruit elements. Tunisian neroli brings a green, honeyed floral nuance, bridging the gap between the top and heart notes with its delicate sweetness. Tuscan violet leaf absolute contributes a crisp, green facet, grounding the opening with its earthy undertones. The inclusion of peach lactone introduces a creamy, velvety fruitiness, reminiscent of ripe peaches, adding a luscious softness to the composition.​

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a complex bouquet of florals. French calendula offers a warm, slightly spicy aroma, while Alpine cyclamen adds a fresh, dewy quality, evoking the scent of mountain meadows. Dutch linden blossom imparts a sweet, hay-like fragrance, creating a sense of nostalgic comfort. Comoros ylang ylang introduces an exotic, creamy floral note, its richness balanced by the indolic intensity of Grasse jasmine. Alpine lily of the valley brings a crisp, green freshness, harmonizing with the romantic, powdery scent of Grasse rose. Florentine orris, derived from the rhizomes of iris flowers, adds a luxurious, suede-like texture, its powdery elegance enhancing the floral heart.​

The base of Zut is a tapestry of warm, resinous, and animalic notes. Javanese patchouli provides a deep, earthy foundation, its richness complemented by the balsamic sweetness of Colombian tolu balsam. Venezuelan tonka bean and Mexican vanilla contribute a creamy, almond-like warmth, their sweetness tempered by the smoky, resinous aroma of Omani frankincense. Russian leather, characterized by its birch tar infusion, adds a rugged, smoky depth, evoking the scent of well-worn leather. The inclusion of Ethiopian civet introduces an animalic facet, lending a sensual, musky undertone. Siamese benzoin offers a sweet, vanilla-like balsamic note, while ambergris imparts a marine, slightly salty richness, enhancing the longevity and complexity of the fragrance. Spanish labdanum adds a resinous, leathery warmth, and Mysore sandalwood provides a creamy, woody base, its softness enveloping the composition. Finally, Tibetan musk contributes a subtle, animalic depth, rounding out the base with its sensual warmth.​

Zut is a fragrance that defies convention, much like its creator. Its name, a French exclamation akin to "damn," captures the audacious spirit of Schiaparelli's design ethos. The scent unfolds as a dramatic narrative—beginning with a bold, sparkling introduction, transitioning into a lush, floral heart, and settling into a warm, complex base. It's a perfume that commands attention, leaving a lasting impression of elegance, sensuality, and artistic flair.​

In the context of 1940s perfumery, Zut stood out for its daring composition and the quality of its ingredients, sourced from various corners of the world. It was a scent that mirrored the era's fascination with exoticism and luxury, offering women a fragrance that was both sophisticated and unapologetically bold.

Bottles:

In 1948, Elsa Schiaparelli launched her perfume "Zut" in a distinctive frosted glass bottle that was as much a piece of art as it was a vessel for fragrance. The design of the bottle was whimsical and daring, characteristic of Schiaparelli's avant-garde approach to fashion and beauty.

The bottle depicted the lower body of a woman, believed to be inspired by the famous French entertainer Mistinguette. In this playful design, Mistinguette is shown wearing fancy striped and dotted panties trimmed in fringe. The humorous twist comes with her star-spangled skirt, which has dropped to the floor in a fluff around her ankles. In response to this wardrobe malfunction, Mistinguette exclaims "Zut!"—a French exclamation meaning "damn" or "oops," adding to the charm and irreverence of the design. 

This depiction not only captured Schiaparelli's playful spirit but also underscored her belief in the interconnectedness of fashion, art, and fragrance. By incorporating such a whimsical and theatrical design into the perfume bottle, Schiaparelli not only created a visual spectacle but also invited the wearer to embrace a sense of humor and adventure through the fragrance. The bottle was cleverly designed to complement the naked torso Schiaparelli had used years earlier for Shocking.

For those who encountered "Zut" in its frosted glass bottle, the experience would have been akin to discovering a miniature work of art—an object that blended fashion, humor, and scent into a single captivating package. The playful depiction of Mistinguette and her exclamation "Zut!" would have further reinforced the perfume's image as a bold and distinctive choice for individuals seeking to express their personality through fragrance.

Five sizes were available in the "legs" bottle.

• 5.75" tall 
• 5.5' tall (2 oz) (originally retailed for $48 in 1949)
• 5" tall (1 oz) (originally retailed for $30 in 1949)
• 3 5/8"tall (1/2 oz or 3/8 oz) (originally retailed for $18 in 1949) This size was packaged in the suede pouch.
• 2 1/4" (1/8 oz)

c1949 Schiaparelli Zut perfume bottle and stopper in clear glass with gold detail, sealed, ribbon, box with rare silk garter; includes short-lived re-edition from 1997, sealed in box. 5 5/8 in. Photos from Perfume Bottles Auction.

Hearst's 1948:

"As a bottle for her new perfume, Schiaparelli introduces, and high time, too, the underpinnings of her famous shocking torso. A pair of tantalizing legs in spangled trunks holds two ounces of an exotic tropical bouquet. It is called "Zut."

The New Yorker, 1948:

"Schiaparelli's Zut, which comes in a bottle that is shaped like a circus girl's legs, is just what it sounds like; it doesn't even pretend to be subtle."

Hartford Courant, 3 Oct 1948:

"Schiaparelli's new perfume "Zut" means "ooh la la!" in French. It's bottled in a divine naughty affair of a pair of legs in spangled trunks standing in a fluff of skirt. If you're interested, it's about $40...we said $40!"

Cue, 1948:

"Mme. Schiaparelli is another one of the old timers who has come up with a new perfume. Hers is called "Zut" which, as you know, is untranslatable, but epitomizes Gallic insouciance. Its two-ounce bottle (at a modest $40) is the other half of the now famous Schiaparelli dressmaker torso bottle."

The Cincinnati Post. 4 Oct 1948:

"Well, at last there are some legs to go with that poor glass torso that's been standing about on damsel's dressing tables the last few years. The new legs are wearing spangled trunks and a fluff of skirt, and they house the "other half" of Schiaparelli's Shocking. It's a new perfume called Zut. That's French for "ooh, la la." Zut is described as "warm, sensuous, alluring, tropical" and it comes in a package encircled with a jungle green ruffled garter. Might at least be a pair of garter for the price, a mere $40."

Modern Packaging, 1949:

"Most unusual is the container just announced for Schiaparelli's new perfume called "Zut," a 2-oz. bottle forming the other half of the now famous Schiaparelli dressmaker torso bottle. Publicity releases describe the form of the bottle as "an uninhibited pair of legs in spangled trunks standing in a fluff of a skirt with a satin sash encircling the "waist" or neck of the flacon. The bottle is packaged in a jungle green and mauve box, gold lettered and circled with an elastic ribbon garter. A miniature version of this bottle, for the toe of someone's stocking, is $3.60, and Zut cologne, in torso bottles (no legs), costs $6 and $10.80."

Star Tribune, 13 Nov 1949:

"If perfumes could speak, Schiaparelli's ZUT would be the wit of them all. Straight from Paris to you, in luxurious presentations gaily reminiscent of the Mauve Decade. It's an amusing gift dressed up in its beautiful box or in a suede "Mad Money" bag. Prices from $15, $25 and $40."

Mademoiselle, 1949:

"Schiaparelli's new Zut, in a naughty leg-art bottle. $15. three-eighth ounce. Saks Fifth Avenue."

The New Yorker, 1949:

"And when it comes to dropping subtlety completely, there is Schiaparelli's Zut, in the familiar and rude bottle shaped like the lower half of a girl in tights. This perfume comes in three sizes ($18, $30 and $48) packed in a green and orchid box with a garter around it. A miniature version of this bottle, for the toe of someone's stocking, is $3.60, and Zut cologne, in torso bottles (no legs) costs $6 and $10.80. And don't forget Schiaparelli's luscious Shocking, which has more of a Mother-was-a-lady air."

Modern Packaging, 1950:

"Schiaparelli's "leg art" French bottle for Zut perfume is now housed in green suede, satin-lined drawstring bag."

Harper's Bazaar, 1951:

"To wear with it, another exclamation point — Schiaparelli's "Zut" perfume."

Cue, 1951:

"Schiaparelli's latest creation new two-ounce bottle of Zut Eau Cologne, paired with a miniature warm, intoxicating Zut perfume. A lightful gift in purple and green $5.75."

 Vogue, 1951:

"Schiaparelli's Zut, a perfume bound to leave in its wake a spicy, warm, diverting note - always.  The perpetuating factor: a tiny replica of the famous Schiap bottle — to reinforce the scent, whenever."

Harper's Bazaar, 1952:

"To wear with it, another exclamation point — Schiaparelli's "Zut" perfume."

Package Design, 1953:

"Here, for example, the Schiaparelli perfume flacons, the ' Shocking ' tailor's dummy and the ' Zut ' " leg art," show the influence of surrealism.— In the advertisements, the flacon is the central theme." 

Fodor's Women's Guide to Europe, 1954:

"Schiaparelli, 21 Place Vendome. "Succes Fou"— indeed a mad success; "Salut"— for young girls; "Snuff '—tweedy, masculine; "Sleeping"— wistful, delicate; "Shocking"— elegant, refined; "Zut"— shocking; "Roi Soleil"— luxurious."

 

Baccarat Cube Stoppered Bottles:

First presented in 1938 and used throughout the 1940s, this clear glass bottle was created to hold the pure parfum, and was not only used for Shocking, but served as a standard bottle for several other Schiaparelli perfumes such as So Sweet, Sleeping, Salut, Le Roy Soleil, Zut, etc. I believe that this sober bottle style was used in response to World War II restrictions on importations, especially glass bottles and supplies from Czechoslovakia and Italy.

This bottle is a domestic French product, Baccarat model #788, manufactured for Schiaparelli only. It is a tall, upright rectangular shape and features a faceted glass cube as the stopper. The smallest size features a stopper that has an attached dauber. The base of the bottle is usually molded with "Schiaparelli" and "French Bottle". 

Fate of the Fragrance:

The perfume "Zut" by Elsa Schiaparelli, initially launched in 1948, captivated wearers with its bold, irreverent charm. However, like many iconic fragrances of its time, "Zut" faced discontinuation around 1965, marking the end of its initial era in the fragrance world. Despite its departure from the market, "Zut" remained a nostalgic memory for those who cherished its unique blend and distinctive character.

In 1998, "Zut" experienced a revival when it was reimagined and reformulated by Nathalie Feisthauer of Givaudan-Roure, a renowned perfumer known for her skill in honoring the heritage of classic scents while infusing them with modern sensibilities. The reformulation saw the fragrance elevated into an Eau de Parfum concentration, marking a renewed chapter in its olfactory journey. This relaunch breathed new life into "Zut," reintroducing it to a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts who appreciated its historical significance and timeless appeal. Feisthauer's reinterpretation sought to preserve the essence of the original "Zut" while adapting it to contemporary tastes and olfactory preferences.

The relaunch of "Zut" as an Eau de Parfum aimed to enhance its longevity and projection, offering a more intense and sophisticated version of the beloved fragrance. This new formulation allowed wearers to experience the intricate blend of notes—likely including the initial potent leathery birch tar opening and the soft ambery base—in a richer and more nuanced manner. By adapting "Zut" to the Eau de Parfum concentration, Feisthauer ensured that the fragrance continued to resonate with both longtime admirers and new audiences, reaffirming its status as a timeless and captivating scent in the world of perfumery.

The reformulated "Zut" of 1998 retained the spirit of Schiaparelli's original creation, likely capturing the playful irreverence and bold elegance that defined the fashion icon's aesthetic. This relaunch not only honored the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli but also ensured that "Zut" continued to enchant perfume aficionados with its distinctive blend of nostalgia and modernity. By aligning the fragrance with current trends and preferences, the reformulated "Zut" of 1998 secured its place as a timeless classic, bridging the gap between past allure and present-day allurements in the world of perfumery.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral amber (oriental) fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, black currant, cyclamen
• Middle notes: marigold, ylang-ylang, linden flower, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose
• Base notes:  iris roots, tonka, incense, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood and musk

Scent Profile:

The reformulated version of "Zut," introduced in 1998 under the guidance of perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer, featured a meticulously crafted composition that aimed to preserve the essence of Elsa Schiaparelli's original creation while infusing it with contemporary allure. At the top, the fragrance greeted wearers with a vibrant blend of bergamot, black currant, and cyclamen. These notes provided an initial burst of freshness and fruitiness, setting a dynamic and inviting tone for the olfactory journey to come.

Moving into the heart of the fragrance, Feisthauer artfully combined marigold, ylang-ylang, linden flower, jasmine, lily of the valley, and rose. This floral bouquet added layers of complexity and elegance, intertwining delicate blooms with a hint of sweetness and freshness. Each note contributed to the perfume's harmonious balance, creating a lush and captivating floral heart that evoked sophistication and femininity.

As "Zut" transitioned to its base notes, Feisthauer introduced a rich and warm foundation that anchored the fragrance with depth and longevity. Iris roots imparted a powdery yet earthy quality, complemented by the sweetness of tonka and the exotic allure of incense. Vanilla added a touch of creamy sweetness, while cedar and sandalwood provided a woody accord that was both comforting and refined. Musk rounded out the base with its sensuous and musky undertones, enhancing the overall allure of the fragrance with a subtle hint of seduction.

In essence, the reformulated "Zut" of 1998 was a testament to timeless elegance and modern sophistication. Its meticulously crafted blend of floral, fruity, and woody notes created a multifaceted aroma that appealed to both classic fragrance enthusiasts and contemporary sensibilities alike. This composition not only honored the legacy of Schiaparelli's original creation but also ensured that "Zut" continued to captivate and inspire with its enduring charm and allure.

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