In 1953, the launch of "Succes Fou" by Schiaparelli coincided with a vibrant period in both fashion and fragrance. This was an era marked by post-war optimism and a growing fascination with glamour and luxury in America. Fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, known for her avant-garde and often surreal designs, had a keen sense of the theatrical and the provocative, which she also infused into her perfumes.
Elsa Schiaparelli's connection to perfumes was deeply rooted in her desire to extend her artistic vision beyond clothing. She saw perfumes as an extension of her fashion empire, encapsulating the same boldness and innovative spirit that characterized her clothing designs.
The choice of the name "Succes Fou," meaning "Raving Success" or "Smash Hit" in French, reflects Schiaparelli's intention to create a sensation with her perfume. The name suggests not just success, but wild, exuberant success—a triumph that captivates and dazzles. It hints at something extraordinary, daring, and irresistible.
"Succes Fou" would have resonated with individuals who embraced luxury, glamour, and the thrill of being at the forefront of fashion. It would have appealed to those who sought to stand out, to make a statement, and to embody a sense of audacity and extravagance. The perfume likely attracted women who were confident, stylish, and unafraid to make a bold impression.
The name "Succes Fou" evokes images of grandeur, excitement, and celebration. It conjures feelings of achievement, admiration, and the thrill of being in the spotlight. It suggests an aura of allure and sophistication, promising an experience that is both memorable and captivating.
Those who encountered "Succes Fou" would likely have been drawn to its promise of luxury and its association with Schiaparelli's avant-garde ethos. They would have expected a fragrance that matched the name—bold, distinctive, and unforgettable.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was classified as a spicy, floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with sharp, green citrus and galbanum top notes accented with sparkling aldehydes, followed by an opulent floral heart of rose, carnation and jasmine, sprinkled with exotic dry, spices bringing a touch of warmth, resting on a soft chypre base reminiscent of oakmoss covered woods found deep in a forest.- Top notes: citrus, Calabrian bergamot, Persian galbanum, aldehydes
- Middle notes: French carnation, Grasse jasmine, Grasse rose, Szechuan cinnamon, Jamaican nutmeg, Russian coriander, Zanzibar clove
- Base notes: Java vetiver, Atlas cedar, Mysore sandalwood, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Singapore patchouli, ambergris, Maltese labdanum, Tibetan musk, Venezuelan tonka bean
Harper's Bazaar, 1953:
"Schiaparelli's new "Succes Fou": woods, spice and flowers in an ivy-leaf bottle."
The New Yorker, 1954:
"While Succes Fou will never replace Schiaparelli's Shocking great, it is a nice flowers-and-forest combination. A two-ounce bottle of cologne with a spray top is $3.30."
Women's Guide to Europe, 1954:
"Schiaparelli, 21 Place Vendome."Succes Fou"-indeed a mad success,"Salut"- for young girls," Snuff '-tweedy, male,"Sleeping" -wistful."
Woman's Home Companion, 1954:
" Schiaparelli's Succes Fou Cologne. Concentrated in a new mist spray atomizer bottle. $3.45."Graphis, 1954:
"Schiaparelli's Succes Fou Perfume. made and packaged in France. . . $12.50, $23.50 and $40.00."
Harper's Bazaar, 1956:
"A trio of party snappers by Schiaparelli. Their surprise: a dram of EACH "Shocking," "'Sleeping" and "Succes Fou" Eau de Parfum. $ 4.50."
Scent Story:
In a lavish salon adorned with fresh pink roses and red carnations, Mme. Schiaparelli welcomed her American guests with an air of elegance and excitement. The room buzzed with anticipation as she unveiled her latest creation, Succes Fou, a fragrance she proudly proclaimed as a tribute to the sophisticated tastes of her American clientele.
As the guests settled into their seats, the atmosphere was filled with the delicate fragrance of the flowers, mingling with the crisp citrus notes that emanated from the freshly cut Calabrian bergamot adorning the room. The sharp, green aroma of Persian galbanum added a touch of vibrancy, enhanced by the sparkling aldehydes that danced in the air like champagne bubbles.
At the center of attention was the green perfume bottle, fashioned in the shape of a large ivy leaf—a testament to Schiaparelli's flair for artistic design. The bottle's green enameled surface gleamed under the soft lights, its unique form capturing the essence of nature's beauty. Fitted with an atomizer, it invited guests to experience the fragrance firsthand, each spritz releasing a burst of Succes Fou's luxurious aroma.
Mme. Schiaparelli, her voice carrying a hint of admiration and gratitude, spoke passionately about the haute couture creations she had crafted for her American patrons. She gestured to the opulent floral arrangements, explaining how each bloom symbolized the rich bouquet at the heart of Succes Fou: French carnation, Grasse jasmine, and Grasse rose. Their fragrance enveloped the room, blending seamlessly with the exotic spices she had carefully sourced from around the world.
As she continued, Mme. Schiaparelli detailed the ingredients that lent Succes Fou its distinctive warmth and allure. Szechuan cinnamon and Jamaican nutmeg added a spicy richness, while Russian coriander and Zanzibar clove provided an intriguing depth. These elements, she emphasized, were not merely chosen for their scent but for the stories they carried—their journey from far-flung corners of the globe to enrich her creation.
The base notes of Succes Fou evoked a sense of grounding and sophistication, reminiscent of oakmoss-covered woods found deep in a forest. Java vetiver and Atlas cedar imparted a woody elegance, complemented by the creamy richness of Mysore sandalwood and the earthy allure of patchouli from Singapore. Ambergris from the Azores, Maltese labdanum, Tibetan musk, and Venezuelan tonka bean added a velvety smoothness, ensuring the fragrance lingered with a captivating warmth.
As the guests passed around the ivy leaf-shaped bottle, each spray renewed the room with Succes Fou's enchanting allure. They savored not only its luxurious fragrance but also the tactile pleasure of holding the crystal bottle, its cool surface a testament to the craftsmanship that mirrored Schiaparelli's haute couture creations.
Throughout the presentation, the guests savored not only the olfactory experience but also the tactile sensation of luxurious fabrics and the visual feast of haute couture. The soft touch of silk and velvet, the shimmer of intricate beadwork, and the subtle whisper of chiffon against the skin—all echoed the artistry and craftsmanship that defined both Schiaparelli's fashion and her perfumes.
In that moment, surrounded by the beauty of fresh blooms and the elegance of Succes Fou, Mme. Schiaparelli had not only launched a perfume but created an unforgettable sensory experience—a tribute to the sophistication and glamour cherished by her American clientele.
Bottles:
Leaf Bottles for Parfum:
Schiaparelli's 'leaf' bottle, crafted by Michel de Brunhoff, epitomized the intersection of artistry and perfume design. Standing at a height of 5.75 inches, including its atomizer top, this exquisite vessel was a marvel of elegance and craftsmanship. Fashioned from white glass, the bottle was meticulously enameled in a lustrous shade of green, adorned with intricate gold detailing that traced delicate veins akin to those found in nature's own leaves.
The bottom of the bottle bore the proud inscription "Schiaparelli France," a testament to its origin and the legacy of haute couture excellence synonymous with the Schiaparelli name. The leaf motif, a nod to nature's beauty and timeless sophistication, harmoniously blended with the opulent surroundings of the perfume's launch, echoing the fragrance's essence.
Designed with both aesthetic appeal and functionality in mind, the bottle featured an atomizer top that allowed guests to indulge in the scent with every delicate spray. This practical yet elegant detail enhanced the sensory experience. Peynet's artistic prowess further enriched the presentation of Succes Fou, as his whimsical and evocative advertisement captured the essence of the fragrance. His artwork complemented the bottle's design, illustrating the allure of Succes Fou through a visual narrative that mirrored its opulent floral notes and exotic spice undertones.
The leaf bottle stood as a symbol of beauty, innovation, and the enduring elegance of Schiaparelli's creations. It not only housed a luxurious perfume but also embodied the artistry and meticulous attention to detail that defined both the designer and her exquisite taste.
Town & Country, 1953:
"Schiaparelli's new romance perfume, Succes Fou. $23.50 an ounce."
The leaf bottle came in four sizes:
- 2 oz bottle originally retailed for $40.00 in 1953.
- 1 oz bottle originally retailed for $23.50 in 1953.
- 1/2 oz bottle originally retailed for $12.50 in 1953.
- 1/4 oz bottle originally retailed for $5.00 in 1953.
Succes Fou by Schiaparelli not only captivated with its fragrance but also dazzled with its intricate and innovative presentation. One of its most distinctive forms was a gilded brass scent bottle jabot brooch, harkening back to the elegance of the Victorian era. This unique creation featured a clear glass scent bottle adorned on its front with a large gilded brass ivy leaf, evoking nature's timeless allure. A gilded screwcap, topped with a sparkling rhinestone, added a touch of glamour to the piece.
The brooch was designed to be both functional and ornamental, suspended by a pair of delicate chains and attached to a smaller ivy leaf that enhanced its aesthetic appeal. This dual-purpose accessory allowed wearers to carry Succes Fou's enchanting fragrance with them, ready to be enjoyed at any moment.
Presented in a heart-shaped box, the brooch was a masterpiece of presentation itself. Its outer surface was covered in rich green paper, hinting at the perfume's botanical inspiration, while inside, shocking pink satin lined the box, providing a luxurious backdrop against which the brooch gleamed.
Vinaigrette Ear Clips:
The allure of Schiaparelli's Succes Fou extended beyond the brooch to include a pair of "vinaigrette" ear clips, also crafted from gilded brass. These clips were ingeniously designed with a special fragrance compartment and diffuser on their backside, allowing wearers to enjoy the perfume discreetly. Like the brooch, the ear clips were presented in a matching heart-shaped box, meticulously detailed with green paper on the outside and lined with shocking pink satin inside.
These sets, celebrated for their rarity and exquisite craftsmanship, are cherished as collectors' items. Their inclusion in Annette Green and Linda Dyette's book, "Secrets of Aromatic Jewelry," underscores their significance in the realm of fragrance history and haute couture innovation. Succes Fou, in these forms, not only perfumed the wearer but also adorned them with a tangible expression of luxury and artistry, embodying the spirit of Schiaparelli's creative vision.
In a 1954 newspaper article, it was mentioned that during the height of the holiday season at Schiaparelli's prestigious Place Vendôme boutique in Paris, one of the most sought-after gifts was the seven-league boot, a whimsical creation that delighted customers with its blend of luxury and surprise. These wide-cuffed musketeer boots, crafted from black leather and steeped in historical charm, were more than footwear—they were an experience unto themselves, filled with seven carefully curated presents. Among these treasures was Schiaparelli's latest olfactory masterpiece, "Succes Fou," housed in a distinctive heart-shaped crystal bottle.
The perfume bottle, cleverly designed to be worn as a clip, featured a large gold ivy leaf that served as both ornamentation and a functional element. When worn, the bottle discreetly nestled under the lapel, while the leaf gracefully adorned the buttonhole, creating a harmonious ensemble that epitomized Schiaparelli's signature blend of artistry and practicality.
To complement this innovative presentation, Schiaparelli introduced earrings that embraced the same scent-inspired concept. These earrings featured a tiny pad soaked in Succes Fou perfume, tucked behind the ear to infuse the wearer's aura with a subtle yet captivating fragrance throughout the day.
Inside the seven-league boots, alongside Succes Fou and other surprises, were "Alice in Wonderland" silk scarves adorned with whimsical motifs like giant cyclamen Cheshire cats. These scarves, reflecting Schiaparelli's playful spirit and imaginative flair, added a touch of fantasy to the holiday offerings, ensuring each gift was not just an item but a journey into a world of enchantment and elegance.
As customers flocked to Schiaparelli's boutique, drawn by the allure of these enchanting boots and their hidden treasures, they were treated not only to luxurious gifts but also to an experience that celebrated creativity, craftsmanship, and the joy of giving during the festive season. The blending of fashion, fragrance, and fantasy in Schiaparelli's creations ensured that each item, from boots to scarves to perfume, became a cherished piece of artistry and a testament to her enduring legacy in the world of haute couture.
The miniature clear glass ivy leaf bottle, designed by Schiaparelli, epitomized elegance and functionality in its compact form. Serving as a purse flacon, it contained approximately a dram (1/8 oz) of Succes Fou parfum, offering a discreet and convenient way for women to carry their favorite fragrance with them throughout the day. The bottle was adorned with a brass screwcap, ensuring secure closure while adding a touch of refinement to its design.
Available in variations that included either a green paper leaf label or a more opulent gold foiled paper leaf label, the bottle catered to different tastes and preferences. Despite its diminutive size, measuring only 1.5 inches tall, the ivy leaf bottle exuded a sense of luxury and sophistication that aligned perfectly with Schiaparelli's aesthetic.
Whether tucked into a handbag or displayed on a vanity, the miniature ivy leaf bottle symbolized both practicality and artistry, encapsulating the essence of Succes Fou in a form that was as beautiful as it was functional. Its inclusion in Schiaparelli's fragrance collection underscored her commitment to blending innovation with timeless elegance, offering women a piece of luxury they could carry with them wherever they went.
Schiaparelli's approach to packaging her perfumes, particularly during the era of World War II restrictions, reflected both practicality and a commitment to maintaining elegance and quality. One notable bottle used for her parfum was the cube stoppered crystal bottle, a design introduced in 1938 and prominently used throughout the 1940s. This clear glass vessel, standing 3 inches tall and 1.5 inches wide, bore the marking "Schiaparelli French Bottle" on its base, indicating its domestic French origin and association with the renowned Baccarat model #788. The bottle's tall, upright rectangular shape was accented by a faceted glass cube serving as its stopper, a simple yet striking detail that added to its allure. Originally intended to hold pure parfum, it became a standard choice for several Schiaparelli fragrances including So Sweet, Sleeping, Shocking, Le Roy Soleil, and Zut.
The utilitarian elegance of this bottle style, likely influenced by wartime restrictions on glass imports from Czechoslovakia and Italy, underscored Schiaparelli's resourcefulness and adaptability. Despite its sober design, each bottle exuded quality craftsmanship and timeless appeal, bearing the molded inscription "Schiaparelli" alongside "French Bottle" on its base. These bottles were typically presented in striking packaging—a shocking pink box adorned with a green ivy leaf label, a combination that echoed Schiaparelli's distinctive style and attention to detail.
In addition to the cube stoppered crystal bottle, Schiaparelli offered two smaller options for carrying her perfumes on the go. The flaconnettes de sac, or purse bottles, catered to different needs and preferences. The quarter-ounce bottle, crafted from clear glass with a gilded cap, provided a practical solution for daily use, complete with a funnel for easy decanting. Priced at $5.00 in 1953, it represented a blend of luxury and accessibility. Meanwhile, the single dram size, made from gilded metal and retailing for $3.00 in 1953, offered a compact alternative for those seeking a discreet yet stylish way to carry their favorite fragrance.
Together, these various bottle designs and sizes epitomized Schiaparelli's commitment to offering her clientele not only exquisite perfumes but also beautifully crafted vessels that enhanced the overall sensory experience. Each bottle, whether displayed on a vanity or slipped into a handbag, served as a testament to Schiaparelli's enduring legacy in the world of haute couture and fragrance.
In the autumn of 1954, Schiaparelli introduced a new iteration of her iconic Succes Fou fragrance with the Eau de Cologne Concentree, a concentrated and double-strength version of the beloved perfume. This Eau de Cologne was crafted to be 86% proof, offering a potent and long-lasting scent experience that retained the essence of Succes Fou in a lighter, refreshing form.
The Eau de Cologne Concentree was available in two distinct bottle options to cater to different preferences and needs. The first was a modified dressmaker bottle, generously holding 4 ounces of the concentrated splash. It featured a practical metallic green screw cap, adding a touch of elegance and functionality to its design. Priced at $6.00 in 1954, this larger format ensured that enthusiasts could indulge in their favorite fragrance without compromise.
For those seeking a more portable option, Schiaparelli offered a convenient 2-ounce bottle of Eau de Cologne, designed with an easy-grip leakproof mechanism and a push-button spray for effortless application. This smaller size, also adorned with a metallic green cap, retailed for $3.00, making it accessible for everyday use or travel.
Both versions of the Eau de Cologne Concentree were meticulously presented in Schiaparelli's signature packaging—a shocking pink box adorned with a green ivy leaf label. This combination not only highlighted the fragrance's botanical inspiration but also underscored Schiaparelli's commitment to luxury and style in every aspect of her creations.
Through these offerings, Schiaparelli continued to innovate and cater to her clientele's diverse preferences, ensuring that Succes Fou could be enjoyed in various forms and intensities, from the opulence of the perfume to the refreshing allure of the concentrated Eau de Cologne. Each bottle, with its distinctive design and luxurious presentation, encapsulated the spirit of Schiaparelli's enduring legacy in the world of haute couture and fragrance.
Fate of the Fragrance:
In 1956, a significant shift occurred for Schiaparelli's iconic fragrance, Succes Fou, as a newspaper advertisement announced the discontinuation of its celebrated "gift-gala" packaging. This special packaging, which likely included the distinctive leaf-shaped bottles that had become synonymous with the fragrance, was being sold at half price to clear remaining stock. This marked the end of an era for the leaf bottle, a design that had captured the essence of Succes Fou with its elegant and whimsical presentation.
Following this transition, Succes Fou continued to be available, yet its prominence gradually waned over the years. By 1969, the fragrance had reached its final advertisement in newspapers, indicating that its production and promotion had likely ceased around that time. This marked the end of Succes Fou's journey in the fragrance market, closing a chapter on a scent that had enchanted wearers for over a decade with its distinctive blend and artistic packaging.
While Succes Fou may no longer be actively produced or advertised, its legacy endures among fragrance enthusiasts and collectors who cherish its unique history and the artistic vision of Elsa Schiaparelli. The discontinuation of its special packaging in 1956 and the final advertisement in 1969 serve as milestones in the timeline of this beloved fragrance, highlighting its impact and lasting impression on the world of perfumery.
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