Launched in 1953, Succès Fou by Schiaparelli emerged during a time of post-war optimism, glamour, and renewal. The name Succès Fou is French, pronounced roughly as sue-SESS foo, and it translates to “crazy success” or “wild success.” It’s a phrase that brims with boldness, triumph, and abandon—capturing the spirit of extravagance and self-assurance that defined Schiaparelli’s postwar aesthetic. For Schiaparelli, a designer known for her witty, surrealist sensibility and her fearless experimentation, this title was a declaration as much as a name: Succès Fou was meant to embody a fragrance worthy of mad applause.
The name evokes a vivid world of glamour and bold femininity. One might imagine flashing cameras, sweeping gowns, confident laughter in a smoky Parisian salon. It is a name that hints at a woman who is both daring and magnetic—effortlessly drawing attention, creating her own narrative of success without compromise. It carries a hint of mischief, too, the idea that this success isn’t simply measured in social prestige, but in one's ability to captivate and provoke.
1953 was a time of elegance and reinvention. The world was recovering from the shadows of war, and women were once again asserting themselves through style, art, and culture. In fashion, Christian Dior's "New Look" still reigned, with its cinched waists and full skirts celebrating femininity in a highly constructed, almost theatrical way. Perfume, in parallel, had become a vital expression of personality and sophistication. Fragrances were bold, complex, and often opulent—crafted to leave a lingering impression. Succès Fou fit perfectly into this moment, yet stood apart with its audacious name and vibrant composition.
As a spicy floral chypre, Succès Fou was distinct but not entirely outside the olfactory trends of the era. Chypres were a favored structure in perfumery—elegant, enigmatic, and grounding. What made Succès Fou unique was its modern sharpness at the top: citrus and green galbanum brightened by aldehydes, giving the scent an airy, glistening lift. This bold opening would quickly yield to a heart that was sensual and full—a lush bouquet of rose, jasmine, and carnation, spiced with a warm blend of exotic notes, adding intrigue and depth. The base was rooted in tradition: the classic chypre accord of earthy oakmoss and forested wood notes, evoking the quiet strength of ancient woods.
To a woman of the 1950s, Succès Fou might have felt like an olfactory celebration of everything she aspired to: elegance, excitement, allure, and independence. It wasn’t merely a perfume; it was a statement—bold, chic, and a little defiant. In a world reshaping itself, Succès Fou captured the thrill of transformation, and the joy of living boldly and beautifully, no matter the rules.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Succes Fou by Schiaparelli is classified as a spicy, floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with sharp, green citrus and galbanum top notes accented with sparkling aldehydes, followed by an opulent floral heart of rose, carnation and jasmine, sprinkled with exotic dry, spices bringing a touch of warmth, resting on a soft chypre base reminiscent of oakmoss covered woods found deep in a forest.- Top notes: Sicilian lemon, Paraguayan petitgrain, Calabrian bergamot, Persian galbanum, aldehydes
- Middle notes: French carnation, Grasse jasmine, Grasse rose de mai, Szechuan cinnamon, Jamaican nutmeg, Russian coriander, Zanzibar clove, Ceylon cardamom
- Base notes: Java vetiver, Atlas cedar, Mysore sandalwood, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Singapore patchouli, ambergris, Maltese labdanum, Tibetan musk, Venezuelan tonka bean
Scent Profile:
To experience Succès Fou by Schiaparelli is to embark on a sensorial journey that is both fantastical and rooted deeply in nature—a fragrance composed like a surrealist painting, layering the sharp with the soft, the fiery with the serene. From the very first moment, it grips you with a vivid, almost electric green rush that is unmistakably alive.
The opening is lit with the brilliance of Sicilian lemon, which lends a zesty, sun-warmed brightness. Unlike other lemons, Sicilian varieties are prized for their balance between sharpness and sweetness, carrying the essence of Mediterranean heat tempered by sea air. This citrus sparkle is mirrored and softened by Calabrian bergamot, with its smooth, rounded citrus tone—less acidic, more floral, almost like a fruit basking in the golden hour sun. Paraguayan petitgrain, distilled from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, offers a fresh, herbaceous green that bridges the citrus with the deeper green of Persian galbanum. The galbanum adds a truly extraordinary dimension—sharp, resinous, and bitter-green, evoking crushed stems and wild saplings. It comes from Iran, where the resin is drawn from mountain plants, giving it a clarity and piercing intensity unmatched elsewhere.
Threading through all of this are aldehydes—manmade, yet magical. These sparkling molecules don’t exist in nature, but they mimic the sharp sparkle of cold air and the soapy, glistening skin of just-washed linen. In Succès Fou, they lend effervescence, a shiver of cool light that dances above the deeper, earthier notes. Their brightness throws the green and citrus notes into vivid relief, making them feel more radiant, more expansive.
As the top begins to settle, the heart unfurls with heady opulence. Grasse jasmine reveals itself—lush, narcotic, almost honeyed with the slightly indolic richness that natural jasmine exudes under heat. It is joined by Grasse rose de mai, a tender, velvety rose that blooms only once a year and must be picked at dawn. Its scent is less thorny than damask rose, more dewy and powdery. These florals are anchored by French carnation, which adds clove-like spiciness with peppery warmth and a whisper of dry petals.
The floral heart is strewn with a complex tapestry of exotic spices. Szechuan cinnamon gives an aromatic fire that’s less sugary than cassia, more herbal and dry. Jamaican nutmeg, rich and rounded, adds a slightly boozy warmth, while Russian coriander brings a dry citrus-laced spiciness, cool and refined. Zanzibar clove pierces through with its sweet-bitter sharpness, a deep, medicinal heat that lingers, and Ceylon cardamom, green and camphorous, adds a lift, like a cool breeze running through hot silk.
As the perfume settles into its base, it softens into something deeply grounding and textural. Yugoslavian oakmoss anchors the composition with its classic chypre signature—damp, earthy, like moss-covered bark in a deep, silent forest. Java vetiver follows with a smoky, rooty depth that feels ancient and meditative. Atlas cedar, from Morocco, brings a dry, woody sharpness, while Mysore sandalwood, now rare and highly prized, contributes a creamy, milky smoothness with its soft, sacred aura.
Woven into this forest floor is a symphony of luxurious resins and animalics. Singapore patchouli adds a damp, chocolatey richness—less musty than Indonesian varieties, with a velvet finish. Maltese labdanum provides an ambery depth, with warm, leathery undertones. Ambergris, once secreted by whales and aged by the ocean, brings an almost indescribable radiance and fixative power—a salty, sensual haze that softens all edges. Tibetan musk, once animal-derived but now recreated synthetically, adds a silky, skin-like warmth. Venezuelan tonka bean rounds out the base with its soft, almond-vanilla sweetness, a final exhale of comfort and elegance.
In totality, Succès Fou is an olfactory portrait of exuberance and elegance. It is a perfume that wears like a spell: sharp yet rounded, fierce yet feminine. Each note enhances the next, with synthetics like aldehydes and musk extending the natural palette rather than masking it—bringing Schiaparelli’s “wild success” vividly to life in scent.
Bottles:
Leaf Bottles for Parfum:
Schiaparelli's 'leaf' bottle, crafted by Michel de Brunhoff, epitomized the intersection of artistry and perfume design. Standing at a height of 5.75 inches, including its atomizer top, this exquisite vessel was a marvel of elegance and craftsmanship. Fashioned from white glass, the bottle was meticulously enameled in a lustrous shade of green, adorned with intricate gold detailing that traced delicate veins akin to those found in nature's own leaves.
The bottom of the bottle bore the proud inscription "Schiaparelli France," a testament to its origin and the legacy of haute couture excellence synonymous with the Schiaparelli name. The leaf motif, a nod to nature's beauty and timeless sophistication, harmoniously blended with the opulent surroundings of the perfume's launch, echoing the fragrance's essence.
Designed with both aesthetic appeal and functionality in mind, the bottle featured an atomizer top that allowed guests to indulge in the scent with every delicate spray. This practical yet elegant detail enhanced the sensory experience. Peynet's artistic prowess further enriched the presentation of Succes Fou, as his whimsical and evocative advertisement captured the essence of the fragrance. His artwork complemented the bottle's design, illustrating the allure of Succes Fou through a visual narrative that mirrored its opulent floral notes and exotic spice undertones.
The leaf bottle stood as a symbol of beauty, innovation, and the enduring elegance of Schiaparelli's creations. It not only housed a luxurious perfume but also embodied the artistry and meticulous attention to detail that defined both the designer and her exquisite taste.
Town & Country, 1953:
"Schiaparelli's new romance perfume, Succes Fou. $23.50 an ounce."
The leaf bottle came in four sizes:
- 2 oz bottle originally retailed for $40.00 in 1953.
- 1 oz bottle originally retailed for $23.50 in 1953.
- 1/2 oz bottle originally retailed for $12.50 in 1953.
- 1/4 oz bottle originally retailed for $5.00 in 1953.
Succes Fou by Schiaparelli not only captivated with its fragrance but also dazzled with its intricate and innovative presentation. One of its most distinctive forms was a gilded brass scent bottle jabot brooch, harkening back to the elegance of the Victorian era. This unique creation featured a clear glass scent bottle adorned on its front with a large gilded brass ivy leaf, evoking nature's timeless allure. A gilded screwcap, topped with a sparkling rhinestone, added a touch of glamour to the piece.
The brooch was designed to be both functional and ornamental, suspended by a pair of delicate chains and attached to a smaller ivy leaf that enhanced its aesthetic appeal. This dual-purpose accessory allowed wearers to carry Succes Fou's enchanting fragrance with them, ready to be enjoyed at any moment.
Presented in a heart-shaped box, the brooch was a masterpiece of presentation itself. Its outer surface was covered in rich green paper, hinting at the perfume's botanical inspiration, while inside, shocking pink satin lined the box, providing a luxurious backdrop against which the brooch gleamed.
Vinaigrette Ear Clips:
The allure of Schiaparelli's Succes Fou extended beyond the brooch to include a pair of "vinaigrette" ear clips, also crafted from gilded brass. These clips were ingeniously designed with a special fragrance compartment and diffuser on their backside, allowing wearers to enjoy the perfume discreetly. Like the brooch, the ear clips were presented in a matching heart-shaped box, meticulously detailed with green paper on the outside and lined with shocking pink satin inside.
These sets, celebrated for their rarity and exquisite craftsmanship, are cherished as collectors' items. Their inclusion in Annette Green and Linda Dyette's book, "Secrets of Aromatic Jewelry," underscores their significance in the realm of fragrance history and haute couture innovation. Succes Fou, in these forms, not only perfumed the wearer but also adorned them with a tangible expression of luxury and artistry, embodying the spirit of Schiaparelli's creative vision.
In a 1954 newspaper article, it was mentioned that during the height of the holiday season at Schiaparelli's prestigious Place Vendôme boutique in Paris, one of the most sought-after gifts was the seven-league boot, a whimsical creation that delighted customers with its blend of luxury and surprise. These wide-cuffed musketeer boots, crafted from black leather and steeped in historical charm, were more than footwear—they were an experience unto themselves, filled with seven carefully curated presents. Among these treasures was Schiaparelli's latest olfactory masterpiece, "Succes Fou," housed in a distinctive heart-shaped crystal bottle.
The perfume bottle, cleverly designed to be worn as a clip, featured a large gold ivy leaf that served as both ornamentation and a functional element. When worn, the bottle discreetly nestled under the lapel, while the leaf gracefully adorned the buttonhole, creating a harmonious ensemble that epitomized Schiaparelli's signature blend of artistry and practicality.
To complement this innovative presentation, Schiaparelli introduced earrings that embraced the same scent-inspired concept. These earrings featured a tiny pad soaked in Succes Fou perfume, tucked behind the ear to infuse the wearer's aura with a subtle yet captivating fragrance throughout the day.
Inside the seven-league boots, alongside Succes Fou and other surprises, were "Alice in Wonderland" silk scarves adorned with whimsical motifs like giant cyclamen Cheshire cats. These scarves, reflecting Schiaparelli's playful spirit and imaginative flair, added a touch of fantasy to the holiday offerings, ensuring each gift was not just an item but a journey into a world of enchantment and elegance.
As customers flocked to Schiaparelli's boutique, drawn by the allure of these enchanting boots and their hidden treasures, they were treated not only to luxurious gifts but also to an experience that celebrated creativity, craftsmanship, and the joy of giving during the festive season. The blending of fashion, fragrance, and fantasy in Schiaparelli's creations ensured that each item, from boots to scarves to perfume, became a cherished piece of artistry and a testament to her enduring legacy in the world of haute couture.
The miniature clear glass ivy leaf bottle, designed by Schiaparelli, epitomized elegance and functionality in its compact form. Serving as a purse flacon, it contained approximately a dram (1/8 oz) of Succes Fou parfum, offering a discreet and convenient way for women to carry their favorite fragrance with them throughout the day. The bottle was adorned with a brass screwcap, ensuring secure closure while adding a touch of refinement to its design.
Available in variations that included either a green paper leaf label or a more opulent gold foiled paper leaf label, the bottle catered to different tastes and preferences. Despite its diminutive size, measuring only 1.5 inches tall, the ivy leaf bottle exuded a sense of luxury and sophistication that aligned perfectly with Schiaparelli's aesthetic.
Whether tucked into a handbag or displayed on a vanity, the miniature ivy leaf bottle symbolized both practicality and artistry, encapsulating the essence of Succes Fou in a form that was as beautiful as it was functional. Its inclusion in Schiaparelli's fragrance collection underscored her commitment to blending innovation with timeless elegance, offering women a piece of luxury they could carry with them wherever they went.
Schiaparelli's approach to packaging her perfumes, particularly during the era of World War II restrictions, reflected both practicality and a commitment to maintaining elegance and quality. One notable bottle used for her parfum was the cube stoppered crystal bottle, a design introduced in 1938 and prominently used throughout the 1940s. This clear glass vessel, standing 3 inches tall and 1.5 inches wide, bore the marking "Schiaparelli French Bottle" on its base, indicating its domestic French origin and association with the renowned Baccarat model #788. The bottle's tall, upright rectangular shape was accented by a faceted glass cube serving as its stopper, a simple yet striking detail that added to its allure. Originally intended to hold pure parfum, it became a standard choice for several Schiaparelli fragrances including So Sweet, Sleeping, Shocking, Le Roy Soleil, and Zut.
The utilitarian elegance of this bottle style, likely influenced by wartime restrictions on glass imports from Czechoslovakia and Italy, underscored Schiaparelli's resourcefulness and adaptability. Despite its sober design, each bottle exuded quality craftsmanship and timeless appeal, bearing the molded inscription "Schiaparelli" alongside "French Bottle" on its base. These bottles were typically presented in striking packaging—a shocking pink box adorned with a green ivy leaf label, a combination that echoed Schiaparelli's distinctive style and attention to detail.
In addition to the cube stoppered crystal bottle, Schiaparelli offered two smaller options for carrying her perfumes on the go. The flaconnettes de sac, or purse bottles, catered to different needs and preferences. The quarter-ounce bottle, crafted from clear glass with a gilded cap, provided a practical solution for daily use, complete with a funnel for easy decanting. Priced at $5.00 in 1953, it represented a blend of luxury and accessibility. Meanwhile, the single dram size, made from gilded metal and retailing for $3.00 in 1953, offered a compact alternative for those seeking a discreet yet stylish way to carry their favorite fragrance.
Together, these various bottle designs and sizes epitomized Schiaparelli's commitment to offering her clientele not only exquisite perfumes but also beautifully crafted vessels that enhanced the overall sensory experience. Each bottle, whether displayed on a vanity or slipped into a handbag, served as a testament to Schiaparelli's enduring legacy in the world of haute couture and fragrance.
In the autumn of 1954, Schiaparelli introduced a new iteration of her iconic Succes Fou fragrance with the Eau de Cologne Concentree, a concentrated and double-strength version of the beloved perfume. This Eau de Cologne was crafted to be 86% proof, offering a potent and long-lasting scent experience that retained the essence of Succes Fou in a lighter, refreshing form.
The Eau de Cologne Concentree was available in two distinct bottle options to cater to different preferences and needs. The first was a modified dressmaker bottle, generously holding 4 ounces of the concentrated splash. It featured a practical metallic green screw cap, adding a touch of elegance and functionality to its design. Priced at $6.00 in 1954, this larger format ensured that enthusiasts could indulge in their favorite fragrance without compromise.
For those seeking a more portable option, Schiaparelli offered a convenient 2-ounce bottle of Eau de Cologne, designed with an easy-grip leakproof mechanism and a push-button spray for effortless application. This smaller size, also adorned with a metallic green cap, retailed for $3.00, making it accessible for everyday use or travel.
Both versions of the Eau de Cologne Concentree were meticulously presented in Schiaparelli's signature packaging—a shocking pink box adorned with a green ivy leaf label. This combination not only highlighted the fragrance's botanical inspiration but also underscored Schiaparelli's commitment to luxury and style in every aspect of her creations.
Through these offerings, Schiaparelli continued to innovate and cater to her clientele's diverse preferences, ensuring that Succes Fou could be enjoyed in various forms and intensities, from the opulence of the perfume to the refreshing allure of the concentrated Eau de Cologne. Each bottle, with its distinctive design and luxurious presentation, encapsulated the spirit of Schiaparelli's enduring legacy in the world of haute couture and fragrance.
Fate of the Fragrance:
When Succès Fou by Schiaparelli debuted in 1953, it was announced with a sense of theatrical flourish, befitting the house's reputation for avant-garde flair. Harper’s Bazaar captured its essence succinctly and poetically: “woods, spice and flowers in an ivy-leaf bottle.” This simple description reveals a world of contrast—the rawness of nature’s forest floor fused with the softness of florals, all contained within a bottle shaped like an ivy leaf, a symbol of romantic entanglement and wild, growing beauty. The flacon itself acted as a visual prelude to the scent, reflecting its earthy and untamed spirit.
By 1954, the fragrance had made its way into the hearts and vanities of women on both sides of the Atlantic. The New Yorker, with its signature wry tone, acknowledged that while Succès Fou might not eclipse the iconic Shocking, it nonetheless offered a charming “flowers-and-forest combination.” Priced accessibly—$3.30 for a two-ounce spray—it allowed more women to experience the prestige and artistry of the Schiaparelli house, with the added modern convenience of a mist atomizer. This reflects the post-war shift toward practicality and elegance combined, as atomizers gained popularity for their ease of use and refined presentation.
A more whimsical note came from the Women’s Guide to Europe in 1954, which offered a concise character sketch of Schiaparelli’s perfume collection. Succès Fou, they wrote, was “indeed a mad success”—a nod to the fragrance’s name (literally "crazy success" in French) and its emotional exuberance. This same guide positioned Salut for young girls, Snuff as masculine and tweedy, and Sleeping as wistful—thus placing Succès Fou squarely as the bold, spirited choice among them, perhaps meant for the woman unafraid to embrace intensity, both in fragrance and in life.
The Woman’s Home Companion in 1954 noted the launch of the cologne version in a “new mist spray atomizer,” priced at $3.45, again emphasizing innovation and accessibility. Meanwhile, Graphis underscored the luxury aspect, highlighting that the perfume was “made and packaged in France,” with price points ranging from $12.50 to $40.00—signaling different sizes or concentrations available for different types of consumers, from casual wearers to loyal devotees.
By 1956, Harper’s Bazaar returned to the fragrance with a festive twist, showcasing a trio sampler that included a dram each of Shocking, Sleeping, and Succès Fou. This set, cheekily dubbed “party snappers,” cost $4.50 and captured the essence of Schiaparelli’s playful yet refined branding. It was a way to invite new wearers into the world of Schiaparelli and to let them discover her fragrant moods—be it the nostalgic, the fantastical, or the wildly successful.
In 1956, a significant shift occurred for Schiaparelli's iconic fragrance, Succes Fou, as a newspaper advertisement announced the discontinuation of its celebrated "gift-gala" packaging. This special packaging, which likely included the distinctive leaf-shaped bottles that had become synonymous with the fragrance, was being sold at half price to clear remaining stock. This marked the end of an era for the leaf bottle, a design that had captured the essence of Succes Fou with its elegant and whimsical presentation.
Following this transition, Succes Fou continued to be available, yet its prominence gradually waned over the years. By 1969, the fragrance had reached its final advertisement in newspapers, indicating that its production and promotion had likely ceased around that time. This marked the end of Succes Fou's journey in the fragrance market, closing a chapter on a scent that had enchanted wearers for over a decade with its distinctive blend and artistic packaging.
While Succes Fou may no longer be actively produced or advertised, its legacy endures among fragrance enthusiasts and collectors who cherish its unique history and the artistic vision of Elsa Schiaparelli. The discontinuation of its special packaging in 1956 and the final advertisement in 1969 serve as milestones in the timeline of this beloved fragrance, highlighting its impact and lasting impression on the world of perfumery.
Together, these periodicals chart the arc of Succès Fou not just as a perfume, but as a cultural artifact—one that reflected postwar optimism, feminine boldness, and the enduring appeal of a scent that captured the drama of woods, spice, and flowers in every spray.
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