In 1939, the time period when Schiaparelli launched the perfume "Snuff," the world was on the brink of World War II. This era was characterized by a blend of elegance and practicality in men's fashion, reflecting a society poised between the opulence of the pre-war years and the impending austerity of wartime. Tweed suits were particularly fashionable, embodying a rugged yet refined aesthetic suitable for both formal occasions and outdoor pursuits.
Elsa Schiaparelli, known for her innovative approach to fashion, also ventured into the realm of men's fragrances with "Snuff." The name "Snuff" was inspired by the color brown, which Schiaparelli whimsically dubbed "Snuff," likening it to the fine, powdered tobacco used for sniffing. This choice of name cleverly tied the fragrance to a sense of tradition and sophistication, evoking an image of old-world charm and refinement.
"Scent" would appeal to men who appreciated classic, understated elegance. The fragrance itself was classified as dry, woodsy-mossy, perfectly complementing the rugged yet polished style associated with tweed suits and outdoor activities. It would likely resonate with gentlemen who valued subtlety and timeless sophistication in their grooming choices.
The word "Snuff" evokes images of finely ground tobacco, old leather-bound books, and perhaps even the rustic charm of a gentleman's study. It carries connotations of tradition, refinement, and a hint of nostalgia for a bygone era of masculine elegance.
Those who wore "Snuff" would likely have responded to its fragrance with appreciation for its understated complexity and its ability to enhance their personal style without overpowering it. It would have been perceived as a scent for a discerning gentleman who appreciates quality craftsmanship and timeless appeal in both fashion and fragrance.
In summary, "Snuff" by Schiaparelli, launched in 1939, represents a fragrance tailored to the tastes of the sophisticated man of that era, aligning perfectly with the rugged elegance of tweed suits and outdoor pursuits, and evoking images of tradition, refinement, and masculine nostalgia.
Original Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Snuff by Schiaparelli is classified as a dry, woodsy-mossy fragrance for men, although some women preferred to wear it as well. Perfect to be worn with tweed suits and for outdoor activities.
- Top notes: Scottish heather, Provencal artemisia, Spanish thyme, Calabrian bergamot, fruity notes, green notes, oregano, mint and Provencal lavender
- Middle notes: Zanzibar clove, new mown hay, French carnation, Grasse jasmine, Egyptian geranium, Singapore patchouli, Florentine orris root, Atlas cedar, and Aleppo pine
- Base notes: eucalyptus, cypress, Virginian blond tobacco, Russian birch bark, Arabian opoponax, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Tibetan musk, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, Mexican vanilla, Arabian olibanum, Java vetiver, Omani myrrh and Russian leather
L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"Snuff by Schiaparelli: fresh and distinctly masculine scents. Scottish heather combined with the smell of tweed brew in a whiff of 'Snuff': it's a crystal pipe where the tobacco disappears to become perfume."
Gentry, 1954:
"Schiaparelli's Snuff , most attractively bottled in a container that looks like a pipe and in a package resembling a cigar box. This crisp, distinctively masculine scent is reminiscent of tobacco flowers. $12."
Harper's Bazaar, 1964:
"Christmas for the cock-of-the-walk man: Snuff — marvelously dashing, altogether male eau de cologne — was created by Schiaparelli for her personal friends when she opened her boutique in Paris."
Scent Profile:
Snuff by Schiaparelli is the scent of wind-cooled wool, sun-warmed leather, and ancient earth beneath hiking boots—a dry, woodsy-mossy composition rooted in the rugged charm of country life and aristocratic sporting leisure. Though labeled as masculine, its balance of sharp herbs and resinous depth makes it one of those rare creations that transcend gender, worn just as easily by women wrapped in tweed or cashmere, sipping tea after a bracing walk.
At first breath, Snuff awakens with a field-fresh brilliance: Scottish heather provides a delicate floral-woody whisper, dry and slightly honeyed, conjuring the heath-covered moors of the Highlands. Provencal artemisia, known as wormwood, enters with its sage-like austerity—bitter, silvery green, and a touch medicinal. Spanish thyme sharpens the edges with its camphoraceous pungency, like sun-baked herbs crushed underfoot.
Calabrian bergamot—bright and brisk—adds a citrus lift, its zest more floral than sour, providing clarity amidst the deeper greens. Fruity notes, subtle and subdued, suggest a hedgerow tangle—perhaps blackberry or plum—matured, never sugary. Green notes, likely made with a blend of aldehydes and synthetic molecules like cis-3-hexenol, amplify the freshness of crushed stems and damp leaves. These synthetics, clean and intensely grassy, heighten the realism of the natural herbs without weighing them down.
Oregano, a surprising player, contributes a spicy-green hum, warm and almost leathery in drydown. It plays perfectly against mint, which here is cool, herbal, and wild—less candy-like and more like what you’d find tucked in a woodland patch. Provencal lavender, renowned for its camphor-rich, aromatic complexity, layers over all with a soothing yet masculine clarity, evoking crisp linen and freshly cut hay.
In the heart, Snuff deepens into spice and earth. Zanzibar clove, sharp and fiery, commands attention—its rich eugenol content delivering warmth and a slightly medicinal edge. New-mown hay, likely a blend involving coumarin (a key synthetic molecule), conjures golden fields and sunlight—dry, warm, and sweet. French carnation, with its spiced floral bite, offers continuity from the clove but softens it with a more powdery texture.
Grasse jasmine—sun-drenched, indolic, and heady—blooms with understated sensuality, never too sweet. Egyptian geranium, with its rosy-minty facets, bridges the florals with the herbal-green notes of the top. Singapore patchouli, dark and earthy, brings a humid richness that differs from drier Indonesian versions—it is smoother, more chocolatey, and rounds the edges of the heart.
Florentine orris root, one of perfumery’s most luxurious materials, lends its signature powdery-suede softness. Its rooty, slightly violet nuance supports the more resinous and woody middle notes. Atlas cedar adds a dry, pencil-shaving woodiness, refined and anchoring. Aleppo pine, aromatic and balsamic, threads in a breeze of cool forest resin—sharp and invigorating.
As the fragrance settles, the base expands with commanding presence. Eucalyptus, fresh and bracing, echoes the top mint and pine with a cool medicinality. Cypress, woody and green, adds structure and solemnity. Virginian blond tobacco—mild, honeyed, and hay-like—lends warmth and quiet sophistication, evoking a humidor in a gentleman’s study.
Russian birch bark introduces a leathery-smoky note, dry and tarry, the scent of saddles and campfires. Arabian opoponax, a sweet resin, adds golden richness—a less sharp alternative to frankincense. Yugoslavian oakmoss, dense and mossy with a mineral finish, underscores the chypre structure, cool and grounded. Tibetan musk, likely a synthetic recreation, offers a soft animalic hum that lingers close to the skin.
Ambergris, rare and marine, lends a saline smoothness that ties the animalic and woody notes together—its presence subtle, skin-like, and luminous. Mysore sandalwood, creamy, spicy, and sacred, is the heartwood of the composition, tempering all with its velvety depth. Mexican vanilla, smooth and not overly sweet, adds a golden softness to the edges. Arabian olibanum (frankincense), sharp and citrusy-resinous, lifts the composition with sacred smoke. Java vetiver, earthy and rooty, imparts a rugged, slightly bitter base that enhances the fragrance’s dry quality. Omani myrrh, balsamic and bittersweet, knits the deeper resins with a note of somber elegance. And finally, Russian leather, a throwback to imperial prestige, closes the composition with a smoky, tannic richness, unmistakably masculine yet beautifully nuanced.
Wearing Snuff is like stepping into a world of tradition and terrain—where earth meets sky, and every breeze carries with it the scent of pine, spice, and seasoned wood. It is a fragrance of landscape and heritage, composed with intelligence and intention, inviting the wearer—man or woman—to carry themselves with dignified resolve.
Bottles:
Snuff is presented in a unique and luxurious crystal pipe-shaped bottle, a playful nod to René Magritte's famous painting "The Treachery of Images," which declares, "Ceci n'est pas une pipe." The bottle, while resembling a pipe, contains a sophisticated fragrance, a reminder that appearances can be deceiving. The bottle was housed inside of a hinge-lid presentation box made to resemble a cigar box, complete with excelsior stuffing.
Modern Packaging, 1945:
"Schiaparelli adds a big, chunky cake of Snuff soap to her line of quality toiletries for men just in time for the Christmas gift trade. Like the other Snuff products, perfume and eau de cologne, the soap is packaged in a modern version of a ..."
Cue, 1954:
"Shaped like a pipe is the handsome bottle in which Schiaparelli is offering its male-aimed Snuff perfume ($12) or cologne ($5 and $9). And the Snuff Gift Sets, containing cologne, after-shave lotion and talc for $9.50, look for all the world like cigar boxes."
Glamour, 1957:
"Snuff ” men's toiletries by Schiaparelli now come in a leather case which serves a long after - life as a stud box."
Eau de Cologne & After-Shave Lotion:
In 1944, Schiaparelli expanded her Snuff fragrance line to include an Eau de Cologne, housed in a uniquely designed pinch bottle. The bottle's distinctive shape, inspired by the robust and compact forms often associated with men's grooming products, was accentuated by a chunky wooden cap, lending a tactile and masculine feel to the design. The seal that kept the container closed and prevented tampering was a reproduction of an enlarged cigar band, a clever nod to the fragrance's sophisticated and mature character. This design detail not only enhanced the bottle's aesthetic appeal but also reinforced the brand's commitment to quality and authenticity.
The same bottle shape was used for the Snuff After-Shave Lotion and Talcum, each infused with the same masculine aroma that defined the original Snuff fragrance. The scent profile was reminiscent of young tobacco leaves, with a sharp-sweet undertone that evoked the raw, earthy qualities of freshly cured tobacco. This distinctive aroma was further spiced with a citron-y dash, adding a tingle of freshness that invigorated the senses and provided a crisp, clean finish. The combination of these elements created a fragrance that was both robust and refined, perfectly suited to the modern man.
By 1954, Schiaparelli's Snuff line had gained significant recognition, as noted in the Saturday Review, Volume 37. The publication highlighted the introduction of the Snuff After-Shave Lotion, emphasizing its place within Schiaparelli's expanding line of men's toiletries. The review noted the $2.50 price tag, acknowledging that while it might initially seem steep, the premium was justified by the product's quality and distinctive character. The tangy, sharp-sweet scent of Snuff, combined with the elegant design of the bottle that resembled a modern cigar box, offered a sensory experience that was both luxurious and uniquely masculine.
The Snuff After-Shave Lotion and Talcum were more than just grooming products; they were statements of style and sophistication. The sharp-sweet aroma, spiced with a touch of citrus, provided an invigorating post-shave experience that left the skin feeling refreshed and lightly scented. The talcum, with its silky texture, provided a smooth, comforting finish to the grooming routine, leaving the skin feeling soft and subtly fragranced.
Incorporating the iconic scent of Snuff into these everyday grooming essentials allowed men to carry a piece of Schiaparelli's avant-garde elegance with them, transforming their daily routines into moments of luxury and refinement. The chunky wooden cap, the cigar band seal, and the robust bottle design all contributed to the overall experience, making each use a reminder of the careful craftsmanship and artistic vision that defined Schiaparelli's brand.
Saturday Review, Volume 37, 1954:
"Did you know that Schiaparelli had added an after-shaving lotion for men to her line of toiletries? ... "Snuff' is its brand name, and although the $2.50 price tag may be a deterrent at first isn't it worth a premium really to smell as tangy and look like a modern version of a cigar box..."
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Esquire - Volume 51, 1959:
Soap, 1962:
Esquire, 1963:
"Snuff cologne and soap, Schiaparelli, $9"
Soap, 1962:
"Mary Chess, Inc., of New York, buys Seaforth toiletry line.... Two other lines of men's toiletries, the "Chivalry" line, originally the "Chessman" line, and Schiaparelli's "Snuff" line.
Esquire, 1963:
"Treasure chest with pull-out drawer contains cologne, after-shave lotion, bath soap, brushless shave cream, hair groomer, deodorant stick and talc, Snuff de Schiaparelli, $15."
Fate of the Fragrance:
Snuff, the iconic masculine fragrance by Elsa Schiaparelli, experienced a hiatus before making a comeback with a modern twist. After being discontinued for a few years, the scent was reformulated with contemporary ingredients, breathing new life into the beloved aroma. This modern iteration retained the essence of the original fragrance but with updated notes that appealed to the evolving tastes of the time.
The relaunched Snuff was available as an eau de toilette and an after-shave, maintaining its position as a staple in men's grooming routines. The new packaging was a nod to its heritage while embracing a more modern aesthetic. The bottles featured a distinctive pipe on the caps, a subtle yet sophisticated detail that paid homage to the original design and the playful spirit of Schiaparelli. This pipe motif served as a reminder of the fragrance's luxurious and unique character, blending the past and the present in a single elegant gesture.
Each relaunch of Snuff was a testament to its enduring appeal and the timeless quality of Schiaparelli's creations. The fragrance, with its sharp-sweet scent reminiscent of young tobacco leaves and a spiced citron-y dash, continued to evoke a sense of sophistication and elegance. Despite its multiple discontinuations, the legacy of Snuff remained strong, cherished by those who appreciated its unique blend of tradition and modernity.
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