In 1939, the time period when Schiaparelli launched the perfume "Snuff," the world was on the brink of World War II. This era was characterized by a blend of elegance and practicality in men's fashion, reflecting a society poised between the opulence of the pre-war years and the impending austerity of wartime. Tweed suits were particularly fashionable, embodying a rugged yet refined aesthetic suitable for both formal occasions and outdoor pursuits.
Elsa Schiaparelli, known for her innovative approach to fashion, also ventured into the realm of men's fragrances with "Snuff." The name "Snuff" was inspired by the color brown, which Schiaparelli whimsically dubbed "Snuff," likening it to the fine, powdered tobacco used for sniffing. This choice of name cleverly tied the fragrance to a sense of tradition and sophistication, evoking an image of old-world charm and refinement.
"Scent" would appeal to men who appreciated classic, understated elegance. The fragrance itself was classified as dry, woodsy-mossy, perfectly complementing the rugged yet polished style associated with tweed suits and outdoor activities. It would likely resonate with gentlemen who valued subtlety and timeless sophistication in their grooming choices.
The word "Snuff" evokes images of finely ground tobacco, old leather-bound books, and perhaps even the rustic charm of a gentleman's study. It carries connotations of tradition, refinement, and a hint of nostalgia for a bygone era of masculine elegance.
Those who wore "Snuff" would likely have responded to its fragrance with appreciation for its understated complexity and its ability to enhance their personal style without overpowering it. It would have been perceived as a scent for a discerning gentleman who appreciates quality craftsmanship and timeless appeal in both fashion and fragrance.
In summary, "Snuff" by Schiaparelli, launched in 1939, represents a fragrance tailored to the tastes of the sophisticated man of that era, aligning perfectly with the rugged elegance of tweed suits and outdoor pursuits, and evoking images of tradition, refinement, and masculine nostalgia.
Original Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was classified as a dry, woodsy-mossy scent for men. Perfect to be worn with tweed suits and for outdoor activities.
- Top notes: Scottish heather, Provencal artemisia, Spanish thyme, Calabrian bergamot, fruity notes, green notes, oregano, mint and Provencal lavender
- Middle notes: Zanzibar clove, new mown hay, French carnation, Grasse jasmine, Egyptian geranium, Singapore patchouli, Florentine orris root, Atlas cedar, and Aleppo pine
- Base notes: eucalyptus, cypress, Virginian blond tobacco, Russian birch bark, Arabian opoponax, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Tibetan musk, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, Mexican vanilla, Arabian olibanum, Java vetiver, Omani myrrh and Russian leather
L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"Snuff by Schiaparelli: fresh and distinctly masculine scents. Scottish heather combined with the smell of tweed brew in a whiff of 'Snuff': it's a crystal pipe where the tobacco disappears to become perfume."
Scent Story:
The grand salon of Elsa Schiaparelli's Parisian maison is transformed into a rustic haven, filled with the robust scents of fresh herbes de Provence, vibrant geraniums, and soothing lavender. The air is redolent with these fragrant notes, mingling with the elegance of high fashion. As I step inside, I am greeted by the sight of masculine sportswear, tweed suits, and polished leather boots, each meticulously crafted and arranged to showcase Schiaparelli’s bold vision. The guests are equally stylish, their attire reflecting the daring and avant-garde spirit of the designer.
Mme. Schiaparelli herself, dressed in a striking tweed suit, stands at the center of the room. She introduces her latest creation, Snuff, her first fragrance for men. Snuff is presented in a unique and luxurious crystal pipe-shaped bottle, a playful nod to René Magritte's famous painting "The Treachery of Images," which declares, "Ceci n'est pas une pipe." The bottle, while resembling a pipe, contains a sophisticated fragrance, a reminder that appearances can be deceiving. She explains that Snuff was designed to be worn with her masculine fashions, perfectly complementing the rugged yet sophisticated style of her collection.
The scent of Snuff fills the room, an intricate blend that captivates my senses. The top notes are a fresh, invigorating mix of Scottish heather, Provencal artemisia, Spanish thyme, Calabrian bergamot, fruity notes, green notes, oregano, mint, and Provencal lavender. The complexity of these ingredients creates an immediate impression, a vibrant introduction to the olfactory journey.
As I explore further, the middle notes unfold, rich and textured. The scent of Zanzibar clove spices up the composition, adding an exotic warmth that complements the rest of the blend. The aroma of new-mown hay brings a comforting, earthy quality, reminiscent of the countryside. French carnation adds a spicy floral nuance, while the opulent sweetness of Grasse jasmine and the fresh, slightly minty scent of Egyptian geranium blend harmoniously. Singapore patchouli and Florentine orris root introduce a deeper, more grounded quality, and the resinous aroma of Aleppo pine and Atlas cedar adds a final touch of ruggedness.
Mme. Schiaparelli explains the costliness and rarity of these raw materials, each sourced from different corners of the world. She speaks passionately about the Virginian blond tobacco and Russian birch bark that lend a smoky, leathery depth to the base notes. The sharp, medicinal aroma of eucalyptus and the fresh, slightly camphoraceous scent of cypress add to the complexity. The exotic warmth of Arabian opoponax and Yugoslavian oakmoss intertwine with the sensual musk from Tibet and the animalic allure of ambergris. Mysore sandalwood and Mexican vanilla add a creamy, woody sweetness, while Arabian olibanum and Omani myrrh infuse a mystical, resinous quality. The earthy robustness of Java vetiver and the rich, leathery aroma of Russian leather complete the composition, grounding it with a strong, masculine finish.
The salon hums with the soft murmur of conversation, punctuated by bursts of laughter and the clinking of glasses. The taste of hors d'oeuvres and fine wine lingers on my palate, enhancing the sensory experience. As I run my fingers over the luxurious fabrics of the tweed suits and feel the smooth, supple leather of the boots, I am immersed in the tactile richness of Schiaparelli’s world.
The culmination of all these elements—the sights, sounds, smells, tastes, and textures—creates an unforgettable experience. Snuff by Schiaparelli is more than a fragrance; it is an embodiment of her bold, avant-garde vision, a perfect complement to her masculine fashion line, and a testament to her mastery in blending fashion and fragrance into a seamless, sensory masterpiece. The crystal pipe-shaped bottle of Snuff, a piece of art in itself, is a fitting vessel for such a sophisticated scent, capturing the essence of Schiaparelli's innovative spirit and dedication to excellence. As I look at the bottle, I am reminded of Magritte's famous painting—indeed, this is not a pipe, but a beautiful illusion, much like the art of fragrance itself.
Gentry, 1954:
"Schiaparelli's Snuff , most attractively bottled in a container that looks like a pipe and in a package resembling a cigar box. This crisp, distinctively masculine scent is reminiscent of tobacco flowers. $12."
Harper's Bazaar, 1964:
"Christmas for the cock-of-the-walk man: Snuff — marvelously dashing, altogether male eau de cologne — was created by Schiaparelli for her personal friends when she opened her boutique in Paris."
Bottles:
Snuff is presented in a unique and luxurious crystal pipe-shaped bottle, a playful nod to René Magritte's famous painting "The Treachery of Images," which declares, "Ceci n'est pas une pipe." The bottle, while resembling a pipe, contains a sophisticated fragrance, a reminder that appearances can be deceiving. The bottle was housed inside of a hinge-lid presentation box made to resemble a cigar box, complete with excelsior stuffing.
Modern Packaging, 1945:
"Schiaparelli adds a big, chunky cake of Snuff soap to her line of quality toiletries for men just in time for the Christmas gift trade. Like the other Snuff products, perfume and eau de cologne, the soap is packaged in a modern version of a ..."
Cue, 1954:
"Shaped like a pipe is the handsome bottle in which Schiaparelli is offering its male-aimed Snuff perfume ($12) or cologne ($5 and $9). And the Snuff Gift Sets, containing cologne, after-shave lotion and talc for $9.50, look for all the world like cigar boxes."
Glamour, 1957:
"Snuff ” men's toiletries by Schiaparelli now come in a leather case which serves a long after - life as a stud box."
Eau de Cologne & After-Shave Lotion:
In 1944, Schiaparelli expanded her Snuff fragrance line to include an Eau de Cologne, housed in a uniquely designed pinch bottle. The bottle's distinctive shape, inspired by the robust and compact forms often associated with men's grooming products, was accentuated by a chunky wooden cap, lending a tactile and masculine feel to the design. The seal that kept the container closed and prevented tampering was a reproduction of an enlarged cigar band, a clever nod to the fragrance's sophisticated and mature character. This design detail not only enhanced the bottle's aesthetic appeal but also reinforced the brand's commitment to quality and authenticity.
The same bottle shape was used for the Snuff After-Shave Lotion and Talcum, each infused with the same masculine aroma that defined the original Snuff fragrance. The scent profile was reminiscent of young tobacco leaves, with a sharp-sweet undertone that evoked the raw, earthy qualities of freshly cured tobacco. This distinctive aroma was further spiced with a citron-y dash, adding a tingle of freshness that invigorated the senses and provided a crisp, clean finish. The combination of these elements created a fragrance that was both robust and refined, perfectly suited to the modern man.
By 1954, Schiaparelli's Snuff line had gained significant recognition, as noted in the Saturday Review, Volume 37. The publication highlighted the introduction of the Snuff After-Shave Lotion, emphasizing its place within Schiaparelli's expanding line of men's toiletries. The review noted the $2.50 price tag, acknowledging that while it might initially seem steep, the premium was justified by the product's quality and distinctive character. The tangy, sharp-sweet scent of Snuff, combined with the elegant design of the bottle that resembled a modern cigar box, offered a sensory experience that was both luxurious and uniquely masculine.
The Snuff After-Shave Lotion and Talcum were more than just grooming products; they were statements of style and sophistication. The sharp-sweet aroma, spiced with a touch of citrus, provided an invigorating post-shave experience that left the skin feeling refreshed and lightly scented. The talcum, with its silky texture, provided a smooth, comforting finish to the grooming routine, leaving the skin feeling soft and subtly fragranced.
Incorporating the iconic scent of Snuff into these everyday grooming essentials allowed men to carry a piece of Schiaparelli's avant-garde elegance with them, transforming their daily routines into moments of luxury and refinement. The chunky wooden cap, the cigar band seal, and the robust bottle design all contributed to the overall experience, making each use a reminder of the careful craftsmanship and artistic vision that defined Schiaparelli's brand.
Saturday Review, Volume 37, 1954:
"Did you know that Schiaparelli had added an after-shaving lotion for men to her line of toiletries? ... "Snuff' is its brand name, and although the $2.50 price tag may be a deterrent at first isn't it worth a premium really to smell as tangy and look like a modern version of a cigar box..."
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Esquire - Volume 51, 1959:
Soap, 1962:
Esquire, 1963:
"Snuff cologne and soap, Schiaparelli, $9"
Soap, 1962:
"Mary Chess, Inc., of New York, buys Seaforth toiletry line.... Two other lines of men's toiletries, the "Chivalry" line, originally the "Chessman" line, and Schiaparelli's "Snuff" line.
Esquire, 1963:
"Treasure chest with pull-out drawer contains cologne, after-shave lotion, bath soap, brushless shave cream, hair groomer, deodorant stick and talc, Snuff de Schiaparelli, $15."
Fate of the Fragrance:
Snuff, the iconic masculine fragrance by Elsa Schiaparelli, experienced a hiatus before making a comeback with a modern twist. After being discontinued for a few years, the scent was reformulated with contemporary ingredients, breathing new life into the beloved aroma. This modern iteration retained the essence of the original fragrance but with updated notes that appealed to the evolving tastes of the time.
The relaunched Snuff was available as an eau de toilette and an after-shave, maintaining its position as a staple in men's grooming routines. The new packaging was a nod to its heritage while embracing a more modern aesthetic. The bottles featured a distinctive pipe on the caps, a subtle yet sophisticated detail that paid homage to the original design and the playful spirit of Schiaparelli. This pipe motif served as a reminder of the fragrance's luxurious and unique character, blending the past and the present in a single elegant gesture.
Each relaunch of Snuff was a testament to its enduring appeal and the timeless quality of Schiaparelli's creations. The fragrance, with its sharp-sweet scent reminiscent of young tobacco leaves and a spiced citron-y dash, continued to evoke a sense of sophistication and elegance. Despite its multiple discontinuations, the legacy of Snuff remained strong, cherished by those who appreciated its unique blend of tradition and modernity.
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