"S" by Schiaparelli, initially launched in 1928, emerged during a vibrant and transformative period in the 20th century. The Roaring Twenties, a decade marked by significant social, cultural, and economic change, witnessed the rise of modernism, jazz music, and a general sense of liberation. Fashion and lifestyle became central to the expression of this newfound freedom, with designers like Elsa Schiaparelli at the forefront of innovative and daring creations.
The connection of "S" to sports is particularly significant. The 1920s saw an increasing interest in physical fitness and outdoor activities, driven by a societal shift towards health and well-being. The idea of leisure and sportswear was gaining popularity, and Schiaparelli’s perfume was designed to complement this lifestyle. By creating a fragrance intended for both men and women to wear during sports, Schiaparelli broke the traditional boundaries of gender-specific scents, aligning with the progressive and egalitarian spirit of the era.
Schiaparelli's choice of the name "S" is intriguing and multifaceted. "S" is the initial of Schiaparelli's own name, making it a personal signature and a bold statement of identity. Additionally, the letter "S" can evoke numerous connotations: strength, sophistication, and style, all attributes that align with Schiaparelli's brand. As an appropriate name for a perfume, "S" is simple, memorable, and versatile, reflecting the sleek and streamlined aesthetics of the modern age.
The individuals who would relate to a perfume called "S" would likely be the fashionable, active, and forward-thinking men and women of the time. They would appreciate the innovation and the unisex nature of the scent, finding it suitable for their dynamic lifestyles. Their response to this perfume would be one of enthusiasm and admiration, seeing it as an extension of their personality and an enhancement of their active, modern lives.
The word "S" evokes images of serpentine elegance and fluidity, suggestive of both movement and grace. It conjures feelings of sophistication, sleekness, and a certain enigmatic allure. These qualities make "S" not just a perfume but a statement piece, representing the wearer’s connection to the cutting-edge fashion and cultural zeitgeist of the time.
When renamed "Schiap" in 1934 and later "Sport" in 1952, the perfume continued to reflect the evolving tastes and lifestyles of its audience. The 1930s and 1950s brought new challenges and shifts in fashion, but the essence of "S" remained relevant. The rebranding to "Sport" emphasized its original intent as a fragrance for active individuals, while the 1961 relaunch as "S" reconnected with its roots, bringing the timeless elegance and versatility of the scent to a new generation.
In essence, "S" by Schiaparelli is more than just a perfume; it is a symbol of the ever-changing yet enduring spirit of modernity, innovation, and style. It captures the essence of the times in which it was launched and continues to resonate with those who appreciate a blend of elegance, activity, and simplicity.
Fragrance Composition:
So what did it smell like? S by Schiaparelli is classified as a unisex fresh floral fragrance that was both fresh and bittersweet with dominant notes of madonna lily, heliotrope, tuberose, iris, white hyacinth, rose and jasmine, layered over a leafy, green base of oregano, patchouli, oakmoss and vetiver.
- Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, Florida grapefruit, madonna lily, Dutch hyacinth, Persian galbanum, Bourbon geranium
- Middle notes: Provencal lavender, Tunisian neroli, Grasse rose, Florentine orris, French carnation, Grasse jasmine, Grasse heliotrope, Indian tuberose, Nossi-Be ylang ylang
- Base notes: Virginian cedar, mexican oregano, Singapore patchouli, Java vetiver, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, Tonquin musk, ambergris, Venezuelan tonka bean
The Delineator, 1935:
"PERFUMES FOR SPORT. Schiaparelli, the brilliant couturiere, has just put out some perfumes. Her first. "Schiap" which is dedicated to the sportswoman, is our favorite, but for indoors "Salut" is pretty fetching."
Scent Profile:
S by Schiaparelli, introduced in 1928, is a pioneering unisex fragrance that masterfully intertwines fresh florals with green and woody notes. This composition reflects Elsa Schiaparelli's avant-garde approach to perfumery, offering a scent that is both invigorating and elegantly complex.
The fragrance opens with a vibrant burst of citrus: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, and Florida grapefruit. These top notes provide a zesty brightness, with Calabrian bergamot offering a nuanced, slightly floral citrus aroma, Sicilian lemon contributing a sharp, clean freshness, and Florida grapefruit adding a sweet-tart juiciness. This citrus medley is complemented by the delicate sweetness of madonna lily and the crisp, green nuances of Dutch hyacinth. Persian galbanum introduces a resinous, green depth, while Bourbon geranium adds a rosy, minty facet, enhancing the overall freshness of the opening.
As the scent evolves, the heart reveals a rich floral bouquet. Provencal lavender imparts a herbaceous, slightly sweet aroma, blending seamlessly with the honeyed, orange-floral notes of Tunisian neroli. The classic elegance of Grasse rose and the powdery, earthy tones of Florentine orris provide a sophisticated depth. French carnation introduces a spicy, clove-like warmth, while Grasse jasmine offers a heady, indolic richness. Grasse heliotrope contributes a sweet, almond-vanilla nuance, and Indian tuberose brings a creamy, opulent floralcy. Nossi-Bé ylang ylang, known for its exotic, fruity-floral aroma, adds a final touch of sensuality to the heart.
The base of S is grounded in earthy and woody notes. Virginian cedar provides a dry, woody backbone, while Mexican oregano adds a green, slightly camphorous facet. Singapore patchouli introduces a deep, earthy richness, and Java vetiver contributes a smoky, grassy complexity. Yugoslavian oakmoss offers a damp, forest-like aroma, enhancing the chypre character of the fragrance. Mysore sandalwood, prized for its creamy, milky woodiness, adds a smooth, luxurious depth. The inclusion of Tonquin musk and ambergris provides an animalic warmth and a subtle marine nuance, respectively, while Venezuelan tonka bean imparts a sweet, coumarin-like softness, rounding out the composition.
Overall, S by Schiaparelli is a harmonious blend of fresh citrus, lush florals, and earthy woods, creating a scent that is both invigorating and refined. Its unisex appeal and complex structure make it a timeless classic in the world of perfumery.
Bottles:
In 1928, Fairchild's highlighted Mme. Schiaparelli's distinct affinity for the timeless elegance of black and white, a combination she prominently featured in her fashion creations and her personal attire. This sophisticated color scheme extended to the presentation of her perfume, reflecting her impeccable sense of style and attention to detail. The perfume was encased in a sleek black and white box, exuding a sense of minimalist luxury. The fragrance itself was housed in a simple yet elegant crystal bottle, its clean lines outlined in black to emphasize its refined shape. The bottle was capped with a white stopper, adorned with a striking black "S" initial, symbolizing Schiaparelli's personal touch and brand identity. This monochromatic design not only underscored the perfume's modernity and sophistication but also seamlessly aligned with Schiaparelli's broader fashion ethos.
Fairchild's, 1928:
"Mme. Schiaparelli has showed a marked preference for black and white, featuring this combination in her models and wearing it herself. For her perfume she continues the scheme, using a black and white box and a plain crystal bottle outlined in black and with a stopper of white with a black [S] initial."
1952 Sport:
Fate of the Fragrance:
"S" by Schiaparelli, originally launched in 1928, represented a significant innovation in the world of perfumery. This unisex fragrance was crafted to embody both freshness and sophistication, making it suitable for wear by both men and women in active, sporty settings. Its initial reception prompted a renaming to "Schiap" in 1934, reflecting the shorthand affection and recognition it had garnered among its admirers.
In 1952, the fragrance underwent another transformation, rebranding as "Sport." This renaming emphasized its suitability for athletic pursuits, aligning with the growing popularity of sportswear and leisure activities among men and women during that era. The repositioning aimed to capture the dynamic spirit of sportsmanship while maintaining the fragrance's core characteristics of freshness and versatility.
By 1961, Schiaparelli revisited the original name "S," reintroducing the fragrance to the market. This relaunch marked a return to its roots while embracing contemporary trends and consumer preferences of the time. The reintroduction of "S" reaffirmed its timeless appeal and adaptability, reflecting Schiaparelli's enduring commitment to innovation and elegance in both fashion and fragrance.
Throughout its various incarnations and name changes, "S" by Schiaparelli has remained a testament to the brand's ability to evolve with the times while maintaining its distinctive character and allure. Its journey underscores the intersection of fashion, fragrance, and cultural shifts, making it a celebrated icon in the history of perfumery.
.png)
.png)
No comments:
Post a Comment