Saturday, July 26, 2014

S by Schiaparelli c1928

"S" by Schiaparelli, initially launched in 1928, emerged during a vibrant and transformative period in the 20th century. The Roaring Twenties, a decade marked by significant social, cultural, and economic change, witnessed the rise of modernism, jazz music, and a general sense of liberation. Fashion and lifestyle became central to the expression of this newfound freedom, with designers like Elsa Schiaparelli at the forefront of innovative and daring creations.

The connection of "S" to sports is particularly significant. The 1920s saw an increasing interest in physical fitness and outdoor activities, driven by a societal shift towards health and well-being. The idea of leisure and sportswear was gaining popularity, and Schiaparelli’s perfume was designed to complement this lifestyle. By creating a fragrance intended for both men and women to wear during sports, Schiaparelli broke the traditional boundaries of gender-specific scents, aligning with the progressive and egalitarian spirit of the era.

Schiaparelli's choice of the name "S" is intriguing and multifaceted. "S" is the initial of Schiaparelli's own name, making it a personal signature and a bold statement of identity. Additionally, the letter "S" can evoke numerous connotations: strength, sophistication, and style, all attributes that align with Schiaparelli's brand. As an appropriate name for a perfume, "S" is simple, memorable, and versatile, reflecting the sleek and streamlined aesthetics of the modern age.

The individuals who would relate to a perfume called "S" would likely be the fashionable, active, and forward-thinking men and women of the time. They would appreciate the innovation and the unisex nature of the scent, finding it suitable for their dynamic lifestyles. Their response to this perfume would be one of enthusiasm and admiration, seeing it as an extension of their personality and an enhancement of their active, modern lives.

The word "S" evokes images of serpentine elegance and fluidity, suggestive of both movement and grace. It conjures feelings of sophistication, sleekness, and a certain enigmatic allure. These qualities make "S" not just a perfume but a statement piece, representing the wearer’s connection to the cutting-edge fashion and cultural zeitgeist of the time.



When renamed "Schiap" in 1934 and later "Sport" in 1952, the perfume continued to reflect the evolving tastes and lifestyles of its audience. The 1930s and 1950s brought new challenges and shifts in fashion, but the essence of "S" remained relevant. The rebranding to "Sport" emphasized its original intent as a fragrance for active individuals, while the 1961 relaunch as "S" reconnected with its roots, bringing the timeless elegance and versatility of the scent to a new generation.

In essence, "S" by Schiaparelli is more than just a perfume; it is a symbol of the ever-changing yet enduring spirit of modernity, innovation, and style. It captures the essence of the times in which it was launched and continues to resonate with those who appreciate a blend of elegance, activity, and simplicity.


Fragrance Composition:


So what did it smell like? It was a unisex fresh floral fragrance that was both fresh and bittersweet with dominant notes of madonna lily, heliotrope, tuberose, iris, white hyacinth, rose and jasmine, layered over a leafy, green base of oregano, patchouli, oakmoss and vetiver.
  • Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, Florida grapefruit, madonna lily, Dutch hyacinth, Persian galbanum, Bourbon geranium
  • Middle notes: Provencal lavender, Tunisian neroli, Grasse rose, Florentine orris, French carnation, Grasse jasmine, Grasse heliotrope, Indian tuberose, Nossi-Be ylang ylang
  • Base notes: Virginian cedar, mexican oregano, Singapore patchouli, Java vetiver, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, Tonquin musk, ambergris, Venezuelan tonka bean
 

The Delineator, 1935:
"PERFUMES FOR SPORT. Schiaparelli, the brilliant couturiere, has just put out some perfumes. Her first. "Schiap" which is dedicated to the sportswoman, is our favorite, but for indoors "Salut" is pretty fetching."


Scent Story:


The opulent salon of Mme. Schiaparelli is alive with the vibrant energy of her latest fashion show. The room is decorated with an array of fresh madonna lilies, geraniums, and lavender, filling the air with their intoxicating scent. As guests gather, the atmosphere is one of anticipation and excitement, for tonight, they will be introduced to Schiaparelli’s newest fragrance, mysteriously named "S".

Upon entering the salon, the sight is nothing short of breathtaking. The fresh blooms are artistically arranged, their vibrant colors contrasting beautifully against the sleek, modern decor. Models clad in Schiaparelli’s innovative sportswear for women move gracefully through the room, their outfits combining practicality with elegance, each piece designed to complement an active lifestyle.

As you mingle with the other guests, the fragrance of "S" begins to weave its magic through the air. The fresh, bittersweet aroma starts with the invigorating top notes of Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, and Florida grapefruit. These citrusy scents are bright and zesty, awakening the senses and mingling with the soft, fresh sweetness of madonna lily and the green, slightly peppery aroma of Dutch hyacinth and Persian galbanum. The hint of Bourbon geranium adds a delicate, rosy sharpness to the mix.

In the background, the floral heart of the fragrance emerges, rich and complex. Provencal lavender introduces a clean, herbal note, while Tunisian neroli brings a bright, orange-blossom sweetness. The Grasse rose is opulent and velvety, the very essence of classic beauty. Florentine orris adds a powdery elegance, and French carnation lends a spicy, clove-like depth. The Grasse jasmine is lush and intoxicating, intermingling with the creamy, almond-like heliotrope and the heady Indian tuberose. The exotic Nossi-Be ylang ylang introduces a touch of tropical floral warmth, creating a multifaceted and harmonious bouquet.

As Mme. Schiaparelli addresses her guests, she speaks of the painstaking effort and expense involved in sourcing the raw materials for "S". The room falls silent, hanging on her every word as she describes the Virginian cedar’s dry, woody scent, the slightly spicy Mexican oregano, and the earthy richness of Singapore patchouli. The smoky, woody character of Java vetiver, the forest-like dampness of Yugoslavian oakmoss, and the creamy warmth of Mysore sandalwood form the deep, grounding base of the fragrance. Tonquin musk adds a soft, sensual touch, while ambergris lends a subtle, marine-like complexity. The Venezuelan tonka bean introduces a sweet, slightly spicy note, rounding out the fragrance with a hint of warmth and depth.

Every sensory detail in the salon adds to the experience. The taste of the hors d'oeuvres – delicate canapés and fresh, tangy citrus cocktails – perfectly complement the fresh, bittersweet scent of "S". The sound of soft jazz music fills the air, mingling with the murmur of conversations and the occasional clink of glasses. The touch of the fine fabrics in Schiaparelli’s sportswear is luxurious, the high-quality materials reflecting the same meticulous attention to detail as her fragrance.

As the evening progresses, the guests find themselves enveloped in the world of "S". The fresh floral notes and the complex, bittersweet undertones of the fragrance create an unforgettable sensory experience, one that is both sophisticated and approachable. Mme. Schiaparelli’s guests leave the salon with a newfound appreciation for the art of perfumery and the innovative spirit that defines her brand. The fragrance "S", whether known as "Schiap" or "Sport", embodies the essence of Schiaparelli’s vision – a harmonious blend of elegance, modernity, and unisex appeal.


Bottles:


In 1928, Fairchild's highlighted Mme. Schiaparelli's distinct affinity for the timeless elegance of black and white, a combination she prominently featured in her fashion creations and her personal attire. This sophisticated color scheme extended to the presentation of her perfume, reflecting her impeccable sense of style and attention to detail. The perfume was encased in a sleek black and white box, exuding a sense of minimalist luxury. The fragrance itself was housed in a simple yet elegant crystal bottle, its clean lines outlined in black to emphasize its refined shape. The bottle was capped with a white stopper, adorned with a striking black "S" initial, symbolizing Schiaparelli's personal touch and brand identity. This monochromatic design not only underscored the perfume's modernity and sophistication but also seamlessly aligned with Schiaparelli's broader fashion ethos.


Fairchild's, 1928:
"Mme. Schiaparelli has showed a marked preference for black and white, featuring this combination in her models and wearing it herself. For her perfume she continues the scheme, using a black and white box and a plain crystal bottle outlined in black and with a stopper of white with a black [S] initial."













1952 Sport:







1961 Relaunch & Repackaging:


In contrast to the earlier black and white presentations of Schiaparelli's perfume, a distinct shift in packaging style emerged after 1961. The transition to white "lace" embossed boxes trimmed with pink marked a new era in the perfume's visual identity. These boxes exuded a softer, more feminine aesthetic, characterized by delicate lace-like patterns that adorned the pristine white surface. The addition of pink trim added a touch of romanticism and elegance, contrasting with the stark simplicity of the earlier designs.

Within these charming boxes, both the eau de toilette and parfum formulations could be found, catering to varying preferences in fragrance intensity and longevity. The eau de toilette offered a lighter, more refreshing option, perfect for daily wear and warmer weather, while the parfum provided a more concentrated, long-lasting scent experience, ideal for special occasions and evening wear.

The transition to these embossed white boxes with pink accents not only reflected evolving trends in design and aesthetics but also spoke to Schiaparelli's enduring appeal and ability to adapt to changing tastes over the decades. Each box and bottle within bore the hallmark of Schiaparelli’s commitment to quality and elegance, ensuring that every presentation of her fragrance was a testament to both timeless beauty and contemporary sophistication.

Available in the following:
  • Ref. 1650 - 0.25 oz Parfum "Aero-Scent" Purser
  • Ref. 1609 - 1/7 oz Parfum mini
  • Ref. 1608 - 0.25 oz Parfum
  • Ref. 1607 - 0.50 oz Parfum
  • 1 oz Parfum
  • 0.12 oz Creme Parfum
  • 2 oz Eau de Toilette
  • Ref. 1628 - 4 oz Eau de Toilette
  • 8 oz Eau de Toilette
  • 16 oz Eau de Toilette



 





 






Fate of the Fragrance:


"S" by Schiaparelli, originally launched in 1928, represented a significant innovation in the world of perfumery. This unisex fragrance was crafted to embody both freshness and sophistication, making it suitable for wear by both men and women in active, sporty settings. Its initial reception prompted a renaming to "Schiap" in 1934, reflecting the shorthand affection and recognition it had garnered among its admirers.

In 1952, the fragrance underwent another transformation, rebranding as "Sport." This renaming emphasized its suitability for athletic pursuits, aligning with the growing popularity of sportswear and leisure activities among men and women during that era. The repositioning aimed to capture the dynamic spirit of sportsmanship while maintaining the fragrance's core characteristics of freshness and versatility.

By 1961, Schiaparelli revisited the original name "S," reintroducing the fragrance to the market. This relaunch marked a return to its roots while embracing contemporary trends and consumer preferences of the time. The reintroduction of "S" reaffirmed its timeless appeal and adaptability, reflecting Schiaparelli's enduring commitment to innovation and elegance in both fashion and fragrance.

Throughout its various incarnations and name changes, "S" by Schiaparelli has remained a testament to the brand's ability to evolve with the times while maintaining its distinctive character and allure. Its journey underscores the intersection of fashion, fragrance, and cultural shifts, making it a celebrated icon in the history of perfumery.




"S" by Schiaparelli retained its identity under the same name throughout the 1970s, maintaining its legacy as a versatile and enduring fragrance in the world of perfumery. Since its reintroduction in 1961, the fragrance continued to appeal to both men and women with its fresh, unisex composition that blended sophistication with a sporty edge. This consistency in name and formulation allowed "S" to maintain its presence and relevance amidst evolving trends and preferences in the fragrance industry.

During the 1970s, "S" likely continued to resonate with consumers who appreciated its balanced blend of floral and green notes, anchored by a base of earthy and woody accords. The fragrance's ability to adapt to various occasions and lifestyles contributed to its enduring popularity, cementing its status as a classic within the Schiaparelli perfume collection.

The ongoing availability of "S" throughout the 1970s not only spoke to its timeless appeal but also reflected Schiaparelli's commitment to maintaining the integrity and quality of its fragrance offerings. By remaining true to its original vision while embracing contemporary influences, "S" by Schiaparelli continued to captivate new generations of perfume enthusiasts, solidifying its place as an iconic scent in the history of perfumery.


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